Pleated skirts and dresses are perhaps the most feminine pieces of clothing, despite the fact that centuries ago they were also part of the European men's costume. At first glance it seems that all the pleated skirts are completely the same, but in fact this is completely wrong. Professional seamstresses, fashion designers and fashion stylists distinguish between several types of folds that make things look completely different.
Today we want to tell you about skirts with bow pleats. After reading this article, you will learn what they are, what they can be worn with, and how to create a similar skirt with your own hands.
Features
Bow folds are also called “oncoming”. This kind of folds is different in that they look different from the front and back sides.
If you look at the product from the front side, the folds of the folds will look at each other, and if you turn it inside out, they will be directed in different directions.
As a rule, the width of the bow folds is from 5 to 12 cm.
Skirts with bow folds are quite lush and voluminous, so they are not suitable for everyone. These models look best on slim girls with a small volume of hips.
In this case, a flared skirt only emphasizes the elegance of the figure, while at the same time giving it a more feminine shape.
Full beauties should be more careful if they decide to purchase a similar skirt in their wardrobe. Girls with curvaceous forms are recommended to give preference to elongated models (no higher than the knee) on a rigid belt-yoke.
There are several options for skirts with bow folds, which differ in the features of the cut. The most interesting models are the “sun” and “half-sun”, as well as the “Tatyana”.
What to wear?
A pleated skirt, regardless of style, looks very coquettish and feminine, therefore, it requires clothing with an appropriate style and mood to accompany it. It can be either business items from a work wardrobe, or ordinary casual clothes.
However, if you put on a skirt with bow folds with an elegant top and beautiful shoes, in such an outfit it is quite possible to appear at a gala event.
There is one important rule, according to which you need to choose the top of a more simple, calm silhouette for a fluffy skirt. Therefore, it is better to put aside long, voluminous things.
Instead of baggy clothes, things should be preferred tight-fitting or semi-tight-fitting silhouette. Let it be a blouse, shirt, fitted jacket or sweater. In summer, you can choose an original top or a simple T-shirt on the straps as the top of the outfit.
The choice of shoes is yours, but since we are talking about a rather elegant, romantic style skirt, we would advise you to stay on models with heels - classic shoes, light sandals or elegant boots.
However, more comfortable shoes are also not contraindicated. Today, many fashionistas are not afraid to wear pleated skirts, even with sports shoes.
How to sew
Despite the apparent complexity of the style, sewing skirts with bow folds is a fairly simple task. To do this, you do not even need to make a pattern, all measurements are transferred directly to the fabric.
Necessary accessories for work:
- material;
- threads
- tailor scissors;
- tailor meter;
- set of pins;
- adhesive fabric;
- lightning;
- crayon, a piece of soap or a washable marker for marking;
- hook clasp;
- sewing machine.
Calculation of bow folds
The most important thing when creating a skirt with bow folds yourself is to correctly calculate the number and width of the folds.
To do this, first you need to take several measurements:
- Determine the desired length of the skirt, then measure the waist and hips. To determine web width, from which we will sew the skirt, multiply the hips by three and add to the resulting number 3 cm, necessary for the free fitting of the skirt. Then we ply another 10-12 cm - this is an allowance. Blade length - this is the desired length of the skirt plus 6-8 cm of stock for processing the lower and upper edges of the skirt.
- The next parameter to be calculated is the total depth of all folds products. It is determined by the following formula: web width without allowance minus thigh coverage plus margin for free fitting. Next we define depth of one fold: Divide the number obtained in the previous step by the desired number of folds.
- Crease distance, or the width of one fold is determined by dividing the hips taking into account the free fit by the number of folds.
- Next, we calculate how much tissue will go to undercutlocated at the waist. To do this, from the hips with a loose fit, we subtract the waist with a loose fit. The result is divided by the total number of folds, then another two and we get the depth of one fold at the waist.
Necessary patterns
The next stage of work is the application of marking on the fabric. Here we will need the results of the calculations made at the previous stage. Marking should be applied on both sides of a piece of fabric.
So, spreading the material on a flat surface, sequentially lay it off the edge and note the following values:
- seam allowance;
- a quarter of the depth of one fold;
- the distance between the folds;
- the depth of one fold;
- three quarters of the depth of one fold;
- seam allowance.
If the skirt will consist of two parts, then the marking must be applied to two pieces of fabric.
Sewing
- Stitch the product at the side seams and hem the bottom edge, leaving 15 cm on each side.
- In accordance with the marked markings, we fold the folds, fasten them with pins and bast.
- Iron the product through wet gauze on both sides, carefully fixing the folds with an iron. We remove the mark.
- We complete the side seam and hem processing.
- Depending on the fabric, we cut and sew the petticoat.
- Sew a zipper.
- We process the upper edge of the product with a stitched belt. To do this, use a strip of adhesive material.
A skirt with beautiful bow folds is ready!