How to sew a pencil skirt and what patterns to use?

This is not the first season around which all the most fashionable outfits have been built around this model. Do you want to get this little thing too, but don’t know how to sew a pencil skirt and what patterns to use?

We will talk about all the intricacies of the independent manufacture of this stylish wardrobe item.

Here you will learn all the most important things - from choosing fabrics to pattern variations and even how to sew a pencil skirt without using patterns!

A classic pencil skirt looks great in almost any fabric design. One and the same style, sewn from one or another material, will sit a little differently. Therefore, we can distinguish several categories for different occasions:

• Business style: gabardine, crepe, loden, flannel, tweed, plaid, jacquard, boucle (any costume fabrics).
• Everyday style: jeans, velveteen, knitwear, cotton, linen, crepe de chine, georgette.
• Evening style: lace fabrics, velvet, velor, natural or faux suede, leather, fur, satin, satin, silk, tanjet shanzhan.

An experienced seamstress is able to work with any fabrics. But if you are just studying and planning to create your first pencil skirt, you should choose the material for it, based on the following criteria:

• lightness of the fabric itself and simplicity in its processing;
• lack of stretch (the fabric should not warp or stretch while working with it);
• lack of flowability (or at least minimal);
• lack of a pattern requiring adjustment;
• low cost.

The following fabrics fully meet all these requirements:

• crepe;
• gabardine;
• linen;
• thick cotton;
• jeans (thin or medium density);
• costume fabrics.

The decision to purchase velvet, velor, velveteen, silk, satin, chiffon and other complex fabrics will be fundamentally erroneous.

It’s not just difficult to start with them, it is almost impossible to achieve the desired output result without any experience in cutting and sewing with such materials.

Take a plain fabric, any pattern, whether it be a cage, strip or other frequently repeated ornaments, will also greatly complicate the work of sewing. You can start working with such fabrics only when the basics of sewing are already mastered.

A straight two-seam model is the standard of a classic pencil skirt. We will consider the process of building a simple pattern of this elegant thing and analyze the sewing process in detail.

You will be convinced that each needlewoman has the strength to create this elegant thing with her own hands, symbolizing femininity and grace for more than a hundred years.

Prepare a measuring tape, pen and notebook (to record the measurement results). To build a pattern you will need the following measurements:

• Sweat - waist half-grip;
• POB - half hips;
• Ds is the length of the back of the skirt;
• DP - the length of the skirt in front along the midline;
• Du - the length of the skirt from the waist line to the side;
• Dst - the length of the back to the waistline.

You will also need two more quantities - gains for free-fitting, which are universal:

• Pb (increase on the hips) - 2 cm;
• Fri (increase on the waistline) - 1 cm.

When all the necessary measurements have been made, you can begin to build the pattern.

Look carefully at the pattern of patterns.

Build a pattern in the same way. This is a classic straight pencil skirt. But so that it does not hamper your movements, there must be a slot in it. Therefore, the rear panel should undergo a slight modernization, as indicated in the figure.

The back panel needs to be cut out from two halves, which will then be connected by a seam. Now you can cut the pattern and cut out of fabric.

1. We cut out all the details from the fabric, having previously outlined allowances for the seams on it: 3 cm - on the side and back, 6 cm - on the hem from the bottom, 6 cm on the left - for hidden zippers.
2. All parts should be processed from top to bottom. Tucks are the first to be swept away.
3. Further, a corsage braid or belt is swept to the upper cut.
4. Fitting. At this point, you can finally determine how large the lateral contractions will be.
5. If the skirt sits as it should, we connect the side sections, sew the fastener.
6. We process the upper cut and the slot.
7. The last step is to hem the bottom.
8. Iron, try again.
9. On the wrong side, you can sew on the buttonhole for easy storage of the skirt on a hanger.

You can use the calculations above to sew a pencil skirt with one seam - the vertical back. This will simplify the sewing process.

The base will be the same classic straight skirt. Strictly speaking, there will be seams on the sides, but small - 8-10 centimeters below the line of the hips. Build the paper patterns of the front and back of the skirt, as described above, but in duplicate. After cutting them, lay them on the fabric, as shown in the figure.

There is also a way to create a stylish pencil skirt. To sew it without a pattern, you need to measure the volume of the hips and decide on the desired length of the future skirt.

• Next, cut from the fabric two rectangles of the desired length and width equal to the circumference of the hips / 2 + 2 cm.
• Fold the resulting rectangles with their faces facing each other and connect them with seams along the side slices.
• After that, put this blank on yourself and fix the desired silhouette with pins - so that the fabric fits your figure tightly. Remove, draw the lines according to the guidelines indicated by the pins and, adding 2 cm allowances for the seams, cut them out.
• Stitch the details along the intended line, while on one side you need to leave room for a zipper.

Sew on the clasp as shown in the picture.

Next, we make a belt. To do this, cut a rectangle equal in length to the circumference of the waist, and in width two times the desired width of the belt of the future skirt. We process as shown in the picture. Sew to the upper edge of the skirt from the wrong side.

The bottom edge does not require complex processing. You just need to tuck and stitch it.

That's all, the skirt is ready! A great alternative to complex patterns sewn on patterns. If you wish, you can supplement it with pockets, basques, play with the color of lines or belts.