Needles for felting: types, selection and subtleties of use

Felting wool without the use of liquids (felting) often requires quite difficult tools to make independently. For example, you need a special needle that is different from the ones we sew. Hand knitting needles have a special structure. The serration of the needle for felting the wool is directed inward to the tip: when piercing the woolen material, the hairs are pulled with a point inward.

The needles differ from each other only by the location of the notches relative to each other. This is the main criterion for their classification by variety. They are sold at any sewing store.

• The simplest needle is a trihedral. On each of the faces there are teeth, the direction of which allows the hairs to be well held during the puncture.
• The star-shaped needle is tetrahedral. All these faces are equipped with teeth. It allows you to more quickly bring down the wool denser. Wool that is not knocked down by a regular needle with three faces properly falls better using a star-shaped needle.
• Sprocket - this is an even more comfortable needle to use. Its notches are arranged in a spiral manner, and not at different levels as on a simple star-shaped needle.
• A needle with three curled edges does not leave traces of work in the form of holes. It is perfect for the final completion of soft toys or small things.
• The coronary needle provides an arrangement of notches at the very end of the working part, while the number of villi delivered is much smaller. So, with its help, doll strands can be laid much easier than with other similar tools. With its help, it is easier to fix the details of any small-sized toy. This needle is reverse mainly due to the reversible chipping sequence.

But the classification of felting needles is not limited to just one form. Digital marking of needles is based on their actual thickness. The thickness range of the needles varies in increments of 0.5–1 mm. The marking of the needles is similar to the marking for knitting needles. Its foreign values ​​are as follows:

• size 40–43 - an ultra-thin needle that allows you to thinly identify small areas and contours at the end of felting;
• size 36–38 - a needle of average size, most often used for stalling;
• size 19–34 - The thickest needles used for the main job.

In Russia, the marking is as follows:

• “Asterisk” at 38 is considered large, 39 - medium, 40 - small;
• coronary at 38 - already thin;
• a twisted needle (36–40) is marked according to its actual thickness.

Sprocket needles come in the following sizes:

• 38 - thick needle;
• 39 - average;
• 40 is thin.

The twisted “sprocket” lies in the numbering range from 36 to 40. Coronary - from 38 to 43, while the notches are located closer to the end of the needle. Such a needle is often used specifically for surface work. An asterisk and twisted needles, unlike simple triangular ones, are used to increase work productivity. They are suitable for experienced craftsmen who stuffed their hands on simple needles - for speed (star and twisted needles belong to high-speed) they pay a considerable effort when pressed during the felling process.

A twisted needle contains an axis that goes in the form of a spiral, which allows you to place more hooks on it - more wool is captured, and productivity increases. The asterisk leaves smaller holes in the material, but captures more hairs - and therefore is considered the highest speed due to deeper grooves on the sides. They are characterized by a smooth ride without breaking the fibers.

Trihedral and tetrahedral "stars" are used most often - mainly the 38th and 40th, the latter work well with the applicator. Conventional trihedral needles do not felter wool as quickly and efficiently as "stars".

In the main work, the "return" is not involved, but for easy fluffing it is still needed. For example, on toys in the form of animals, fruits and flowers, it forms something like light fluff. "Return" fluffs the wool in reverse movements, which is why it got its name. It perfectly helps to dump wool in hard-to-reach places where the original geometry is used, to make the wool especially noticeable and textured.

The coronary needle is also suitable for manual felting and is used in specific cases, for example, for deboning artificial hair for dolls and other toys made of textiles. At the very end, there are 3 grooves that accurately roll long threads without deepening them further into the material. The "crown" needle is used in specific places. If you work with the “crown” with another needle on the same tip, you will get a dent. That is why it is such a needle that is used for boning hair strands.

Felting needles often break from long and voluminous work. The force that is sometimes applied to the wool is rather big - it can wear the needle to such an extent that the steel breaks. Russian products are represented, for example, by Gamma, but they are inferior in fragility and flexibility to all the same foreign ones from Clover.

Germany and Japan excelled best in needle manufacturing. It is the German and Japanese “felts” that are recommended for long and systematic work.

For a clear and high-quality work, the following inventory is required:

• needles;
• mat for work (in the simplest case - thick foam rubber);
• pimply film (small goods from China are often packed in this);
• fluff beating brush;
• fixing device for needles (supports work with several needles);
• substrate for raw felting (sliver).

Holders (applicators) are supplied with removable or inseparable bases. Interchangeable ones allow you to work with several needles, monolithic ones - with only one, originally fixed in the applicator itself. But adapters are also supplied to the monolithic holders, allowing you to put felting on the stream - you can use up to 5 needles at the same time. Often applicators are made of wood or plastic.

This is mainly wood or plastic. Applicators are best suited for short needles - long ones will peek out of them, which will complicate the work process.

The needle is located strictly perpendicular to the processed wool - at this angle it enters and leaves it. Distortions to either side prematurely loosen the needle and lead to its early breakdown. “Fatigue” of metals: the product from millions of flexions and extensions simply breaks.

Start with the thickest needle, not the other way around. Unwaxed wool requires preliminary shaking, making it easier to work with thinner needles. This means that a thick needle enters unprepared wool much tighter, thinner ones are easy to break without whipping material beforehand. But a thick needle will no longer go into piled wool - here, after giving the products a basic shape, medium and thin points are needed.

Masters working with interior toys and souvenirs mainly use needles no larger than 36th size. When the work is almost finished and the wool needs to be smoothed out, a thin tool is required, up to the 43rd. For exceptionally small details and souvenirs, thinner needles are also used - no larger than the 40th. Try and look for the scatter of needles that is convenient for you. The above recommendations will help to knit wool at a high quality, giving the product a finished and neat look.

No, the use of homemade felting needles can only do much harm - the wool will not be torn, but tattered. You cannot make a felt needle yourself - their edges and hooks must be thin, which is achievable only in factory conditions. The use, for example, of toothpicks with a sharpener similar to felted needles is not justified: the tree is brittle, the hooks will quickly dry out, and such a homemade product in the end looks like a simple “picker” that does not give an effect.

See how to choose and use felting needles in the next video.