Shopping, the choice of style and model that will fit and sit perfectly, unreasonably high prices in stores - these and many other problems are experienced by most girls. Some surrender in search of their own model, others buy for a lot of money, and others go and buy fabric to sew what is perfect.
What is a base pattern and where to find it?
To stitch the product you need a sample. This layout is called a pattern.
Pattern - details of clothing that are made on the basis of the drawing. It consists of several parts, the choice of which depends on what needs to be sewn. It is very convenient to use such a basis for creating small parts.
On one sheet are several patterns. On specially marked lines you can find exactly your model.
Details that are marked on the basis may not always fit perfectly into the figure, which is absolutely normal. In this case, the hostess herself customizes the thing for herself. The main thing is to take the basis for what needs to be sewn.
Often patterns can be found in specialized magazines, such as Burda, or on the Internet.
Necessary tools
To facilitate the work, there are many items for needlework.
When creating trousers use:
- paper for redrawing the pattern;
- chalk or pencil;
- needles;
- threads of the desired color;
- tape centimeter;
- sewing machine;
- a slanting overlay or an overlock to process edges;
- other small details necessary for the design of the model: zipper, buttons, elastic and so on.
How to make measurements?
The first thing you need to start with is taking measurements. To make measurements accurate, do them better in underwear. The main tool at this stage will be a centimeter tape, with which you need to make measurements:
- waist circumference (at the waist in a narrow part);
- hips (over a wide area);
- side length (interval on the side of the leg from the waist to the end of the leg);
- seat height (measurements occur while sitting and look at the interval from the waist to the seat of the chair);
- knee height (on the side from the waistline to the middle of the patella);
- stride length (with legs slightly apart, froze from the groin of the inner thigh to the floor).
See how to properly take measurements in the next video.
Drawing Techniques
Italian
A step-by-step explanation of sewing trousers is an excellent support for beginner seamstresses.
One of the most affordable is the drawing instruction of the basic pattern according to Italian technology.
This technique is great for sewing trousers for women who have a strong back curve. This problem is solved by shifting the side seam to the center of the back region by 1 cm. Due to this, the model will sit in the belt and on the hips.
This technology considers the manufacture of straight women's trousers.
First you need to do - take measurements. In addition to the usual measurements, do:
- increase to the waist;
- increase in the hips. Their level depends on how much the product will fit.
It is worth going from the front panel of trousers:
- The mark A is fixed in the upper right corner. Two more marks are drawn one after another from this point. A line equal to 1⁄4 (hip circumference + PB) is drawn from mark В in the left direction and mark В1 is drawn, and 0.5 from В - mark В2.
- To the left of C is drawn a thread equal to BB1, - C1. And on the right 1 \ 20 of the hips - C2.
- Now you need to connect A, B2 and C2. The middle seam will come out.
- From mark A, a mark A1 - 1 \ 4 of the waist circumference + 3 centimeters is drawn and marked. From this mark, 1 centimeter is drawn and A2 is indicated.
- Next, connect A2, B1, C1.
- A mark D is placed in the middle of C1C2. A perpendicular to A1A is drawn from it to the upper section, and a mark E is denoted. VK is calculated down from this boundary, a line is drawn and it is marked D1. The length of the leg is calculated from the marked mark. This will be border F.
- In the right and left directions from D1, lines equal to 1 \ 2 girth of the knee are drawn. Right mark D3, left mark D2.
- Points F1F2 are plotted on the sides of the label F. They are equal to the distance of the line D2D3.
- Now you need to connect the labels C2, D2, F2 - this is the inner seam. When connecting C1, D3, F1, an external seam is formed. And the previously made line D, D1, F will be the middle of these two seams.
- To get the front tuck, it is necessary to postpone 1 centimeter from the mark E in both directions and mark these points E1, E2. From the main mark E go down 10 centimeters and mark E3. Connect the constructed points.
- For the front part to be ready, you need to draw lines from A2 to E1, from E1 to E3, from E3 to E2, from E2 to A.
The back side is based on the drawing of the front part:
- In order not to confuse the lines, you should use a chalk, pencil or marker in different colors.
- From line A on the left side, a segment of 1 \ 2 AE + 2 centimeters is measured and marked with a mark N. From this mark, an indent of 2 centimeters is made and a line marked H1 is drawn.
- Now you need to measure 1 \ 2 girth of the hips and from point C to the left put C3. Next, make a straight line from this point to H1.
- From C3, draw a line to the right, equal to 1 \ 10 girth of the hips, and mark C4.
- Now you should return to line A. Make an Italian offset of the side seam: from H by 1 \ 4 waist circumference - 1 centimeter + 2 centimeters and an H2 mark is made. From it, a perpendicular line is drawn up 1 cm and H3 is connected, connecting with H1.
- Further, the direction to L. is drawn. It is obtained when B1B2 and H1C3 intersect.
- A smooth guide 1 \ 4 of the hips to L1 is drawn to the left of the L mark.
- To get the outer seam, you need to connect H3, L1. To form the middle seam, you need to draw a segment from L to C4.
- Next, sections of the knee and bottom are made based on the posterior half.To do this, you need to postpone up to 1.5 cm from the marks D2, D3, F1, F2 and designate them G, G1, F3, F4. To obtain a seam and back seam, make a smooth line between L1, G, F3 and C4, G1, F4.
- When a groove is formed on the back, you need to turn to H1H3. In the middle, mark the point M. From it move 1 cm in both directions and parallel to H1 L lay down 14 cm down. Form M1, M2, N.
Finish the pattern by checking the length on the inner and outer seams. If it matches, then you can proceed directly to sewing.
According to Muller
Among the simplest technologies, there is a Mueller construction scheme. This technique is a construction for beginners.
The pattern is built on a standard pants model.
- The main base of the drawing is a vertical line on which segments 1 and 2 are highlighted. The length of the segments depends on the shape of the hips. On average, you can measure 1.5 cm.
- BC is measured by borders 1 and 3. VK is marked by points 3, 4. The length to the side to the foot is indicated by marks 1-5.
- 5 and 6, a measurement will be indicated that corrects the length, the choice of which is subordinate to the model and the height of the heel.
- Marks 3-7 indicate the area of the hips. Next, draw straight lines from marks 2, 7, 3, 4, 6 to the right.
- The width of the front section of the trouser leg is noted in paragraphs 7-8. ШШ of the front half, measured 1 \ 10 from half OB + 1 cm, is fixed at 8-9 marks. To get marks 8a and 10, you need to draw a line through the mark 8.
- On line 7-9, you need to find the middle and place the mark 11. Next, you must mark the segment 6-12. It will match 7-11.
- To get the middle of the front half, it is necessary to form from the waist mark through marks 13 and 14 at the intersection with the knee and waist marks.
- From 15-16, make a straight line equal to 4-8 centimeters and mark points 15a and 16a. To align the angles at marks 15a and 16a, you need to combine 7 and 15a, 9 and 16a. After that, marks 17, 18, 19 are obtained.
- A row of 10-20, determining the deviation of the cut paths of the bow of the front region of the trousers, is 1 cm.
- From mark 8 make a mark in the right direction, 0.5 centimeters long. Draw a line through this mark and border 20. 8a and 8b are equal to half of the segment 8a-17. Next, draw an additional segment 8b-17.
Now you need to make the front cut line:
- From her, make a short segment to the waist mark. The distance between the intersection of the straight line and the waist mark corresponds to 3-5 cm on the right side of the main vertical line. To achieve the desired shape at the knee border, it is worth varying the distance between marks 18 and 23 and marks 19 and 24 from 0 to 1 cm.
- The side slice line is formed by a curve using compounds 22, 7, 3a, 23, 15a, 15.
- The step cut line is made by connecting the points 17, 24, 16a, 16.
- Section 14-22 should be divided into two parts, for this it is necessary to draw a straight line to the mark of the hips.
The back half of the leg is based on the front:
- Point 25 should be made from mark 11, for this you need to move 1-2 cm to the right. Next, make a straight line from 25. The distance from this point to the future mark will fit 1 \ 4 of the backside. This point will be called 26. The line of the middle section of the backside is determined by the interval between the marks 3a and 27. This segment takes 3-5 cm.
- Next, combine 26 and 27. From 26, draw lines in the upper and lower directions.
- The waist and hips need to be increased. At the waist, make a path to the left. At the hips right and left.
- Move section 26-27 up to contact with the straight thighs and mark 28-29 there.
- Then draw 2 straight lines from the bottom to the knee on both sides of the bend at a distance of 2 cm from each other. Thus, points 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 34a are formed.
- For the formation of mark 35, it is necessary to draw a line from mark 32 through 29 to contact with the waist.
- Combine mark 31 with 30. Depending on the gluteal forms, make an interval between marks 13 and 36 equal to 13-35 minus 0-1 cm. Merge 35-36.
- From mark 36, make a segment with a distance of 0.5-1 cm in the left direction to 36-35. Thus, the mark 37 is obtained. At this stage, we can begin to design the upper border of the middle section of the trousers. To do this, you need to combine 37 38. The distance between these marks will be equal to 1 \ 4 waist circumference + 3-4 cm + 0.5 cm.
- Next, draw a straight line from 38 to the top. Here, draw the border of the lateral cut of the backside. This length is equal to the length of the front area of the trousers.
- It is necessary to issue a tuck. It must be marked in the rear section perpendicular to the line 36-35. The length should be 13-15 centimeters.
- At this stage, it is necessary to form the threads of the stepping slice and waist. The lengths of the step cut back and front should be equal. You should begin to design a medium cut.
In this case, a step is a comparison of two parts, adjustment of the border of the cut of the waist and darts.
How to increase the pattern to the desired size, how to reduce?
Ready-made patterns are always made in accordance with the standard figure. But do not be upset, because you can increase or decrease to a specific size.
It is necessary to carefully examine the back and front leg and cut along a vertical line in the middle and push it apart by 0.5-1 cm to increase. To reduce, move the parts by 0.5-1 cm.
To increase the length in the pattern, it is necessary to add 2-3 centimeters from the bottom. See how to do this in the video.
Perfect fit pants: the rules of adjustment
Ideal trousers are their perfect fit, able to hide figure flaws and correct them somewhere. But hand-sewn trousers do not always match the ideal. To do this, refer to the rules of adjustment.
Usually problems arise with the hips. For instance, if the girl has full hips, then this contributes to the formation of folds. To get rid of creases, you can work a little on the pattern. In front of the trousers, you need to make two segments of 10-15 centimeters above the step boundary 2-3 cm and 10 cm lower. Next, compare the result. Cut by marks. Place the resulting part in the left area by 1-3 centimeters and mark this side border. The same must be done with the rear section.
With thin legs creates an image of baggy. Avoiding this will allow the removal of excess volume. It is necessary to measure OH from above and compare the resulting figure with the value on the pattern. Next, calculate the difference between the two digits, and on the lateral and step area of the back and front put aside 1/4 of the calculated value and thereby shorten the width of the leg in the leg circumference at the top.
With insufficient volume of the buttocks a large accumulation of material is formed. For adjustment, it is necessary to reduce the waistline by the desired amount and reduce the L in the back region.
To get rid of folds under the buttocks, you need to work with ready-made trousers:
- On the finished product, you need to stab the excess fabric into one fold on one of the trousers from the side seam to the middle. This fold must be removed.
- Next, you should flatter the middle seam in the area from the step line to the waist.
- Next, connect the two legs with the external parts.
- When comparing the surplus on a multiple leg, it should be shifted up the middle seam.
- The new border should be transferred to the other half of the leg below.
- Then grind the middle seam in a new line, and cut off the excess in the allowance. And remove the excess in length in the area of the belt.
In the opposite situation - protruding gluteal area, in its lower part folds and creases are formed. To fix this problem, it is necessary to measure 11 cm on the back of the pants from the step line to the upper and lower sides and draw 2 parallel ones of 12-15 centimeters. Their ends then combine. According to the resulting features, cut the pattern. Move the cropped to the right literally 1-3 cm and create segments for the middle seam of the back and step.
Modeling basics
Hipster
Modeling makes it possible to create perfect pants, taking into account all the special figures. All models are formed on the basis of a standard pattern of trousers.
- Before you start modeling a low-waist option, you need to move 2 cm from both sides of the waist. After that you need to make a new understated border and cut off along it.
- When creating the front part of a narrowed model, for a start you need to narrow the trousers down to about 14 cm. Focusing on your height, shorten it by the right measure. Next, you need to determine the area of entry into the pocket. To do this, measure 4 cm to the right at the waist and down 14 cm. The resulting groove must be transferred to the crease. For lightning, an increase of 3-4 cm in width and 14 cm in length is needed.
- To obtain additional volume in the hips and the second fold, you need to cut the pattern along the arrow line and push it 4 cm apart.
- To create the back of trousers, you need to narrow it by 15 cm and reduce it. The width of the back leg reaches 1-2 cm.
With smell
The creation of trousers requires the formation of the back lobe:
- Therefore, you should measure 5 cm down from the waist and draw an understated segment.
- Draw a yoke from the already updated waist contour. Its details should be cut off, cut into recesses and glued everything together. Its top and bottom should be rounded.
- The narrowing of the legs in the lower and in the knee also depends on personal desires.
- When modeling the front part, the waistline should be reduced by 5-6 cm. Next, narrow in the knee and lower. Draw the features of two seams: side and step. Next, translate before tracing twice. Fold the two halves along the middle line of the front.
- To continue the simulation, set aside 5 cm in the left direction from the lateral line, 14 cm back down.
- To create a smell, you need to split in front of the waist in half. To retreat from the knee area 10 cm upwards and combine the created marks with a line. From the resulting create a strip of smell.
- All details of red and lilac color must be re-painted on tracing paper. The red triangle is mirrored in the left area. The lilac part must be combined with a red triangle. On the lateral line and waist, all lines and corners should be rounded.
- Additionally, issue two parts of the belt in width 5 cm and in length, respectively, the length of the upper part of the trousers.
For pregnant
For the production of pants for pregnant women in front along the lateral border from the waist:
- Move 16 cm down and 1 cm to the left.
- Up you need to postpone a segment of 4-5 cm.
- On the middle front line, you need to measure down 22 cm and continue to the right to continue the waist by 5 cm. Connect all marks with straight lines, and then bend them along the curve.
- From marks 5 and 6 you need to move upwards about 6-8 cm. Here, make a new waist with a belt.
- On the hem of the belt, add 3 cm upwards.
- You should also prepare a stitched belt for the back of the pants. Its width corresponds to 6 cm and a length of 3 cm.
For full
The production of trousers for full begins with a pattern of front:
- On the vertical segment, postpone the seat height (points 1-2), VK (1-3), DB (3-4), create the desired length (1-5), hips + 3 cm (5-6) and hips line ( 3-7), the width of the anterior half (7-8), the half-circumference of the hips + 1.5 cm (8-9).
- At marks 2, 3, 4, 7 make a segment. Make a perpendicular to the hips from mark 8. In contact with the sun and waist, note 8a and 10.
- From mark 12 make a straight line through 11. When crossing the marks of the knee and waist, 13 and 14 are set.
- From 12 measure in the upper region of 4-8 cm and designate 15a and 16a. Marks 7 and 15a, 9 and 16a to combine. Against this background, make 3a, 17, 18, 19.
- From 0.5 in the right direction, measure 0.5 cm. Measure the half of segment 8a-17 from 8a upwards, and you get 8b. Combine the resulting mark with 17.
- Mark 21 is formed from 10 by depositing 1 \ 4 OT + increase on the tuck and free fitting. If you move 1.5 cm straight to the waist, 22 will form.
- In the bend of the knee, measure 1 cm from the ends to the inside - marks 23, 24. mark the segments of the side and step cuts.
- The undercut should be built to a depth of 10 cm and a solution of 1.5 cm. At the end, complete the creation of the waist.
When converting the back side, you need to copy the front half and add corrections:
- Measure the area of the back fold from mark 11 by 1-2 cm. From 25 make the width of the back half 0.5 cm. Sign 27 is formed by depositing 3-5 cm from point 3a. Marks 26 and 27 close.
- The hips and waists should be increased. The width of the back leg should be made from 28 to the contact with the thigh area.
- 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 34a are made by drawing features of the side and step sections two cm from the front sections.
- A path from 32 through 29 to the waist creates a mark of 35. 35 connect with 36 and put it to the left direction 1 cm. This turns out to be 37. From this point measure 1 \ 4 waist circumference + 3-4 cm of tuck + 0.5 cm of increase in free fit .Point 38 is marked here.
- It is necessary to move the side cut lines of the front side to the side cut part of the rear half.
- The undercut is constructed with a length of 13-15 cm. At the end, you need to complete the waist area of the middle section of the back of the pants.
How to sew with your own hands?
Many girls are apprehensive about sewing trousers, considering this product difficult. One that is difficult is possible. You need to start with the standards. In order for the pants to fit perfectly in the figure, you must correctly measure. Measurements should be made from a naked body. Press the centimeter tape tightly against the body.
By your standards, you can begin to build a pattern. When creating a pattern, we use our own measurements and values that were obtained using calculations by our own standards.
After the base of the pattern is ready, you can start modeling. To do this, you need to choose a model of pants or trousers and using your own samples presented in magazines and the Internet, create your own style.
After you need to choose a fabric. All materials with elastane are suitable for trousers. You can also use wool, satin and linen.
Before sewing, it is advised to iron the fabric.
It remains to cut out the details and sew.