The choice and technology of applying the nail extension mold

According to statistics, only every fifth representative of the fair sex can boast of strong nails by nature. Given this circumstance, one should not be surprised at the growing popularity of forms for building: special templates that allow you to realize a lot of original ideas. This is explained not only by the large selection of such devices, but also by the technology of their application, which contributes to the achievement of the optimal result.

As already noted above, the forms are patterns used to give the nails the characteristics necessary for the client: first of all, length and shape. The solution to this problem involves the use of one of two modeling materials: gel or acrylic, each of which has its own set of advantages. Noteworthy is the ease of care for nails extended by this method, which requires correction at least once a month.

Using the technique of building with the help of templates, the nails can be given a very different shape: oval, rectangular or pointed. Another advantage of the described technology is the natural appearance of the plates, achieved due to the smooth transitions and the absence of noticeable thickenings. The only drawback of such a build-up is the complexity, which requires a sufficient level of competence from the contractor. For this reason, many novice craftsmen prefer nail tips - plastic blanks attached to the nails, which are much easier to use.A tangible minus of this decision is a less natural appearance that suits not every woman.

There are two main types of forms for building, each of which suggests its own fastening option: lower or upper. Practice shows that both varieties have their obvious advantages, making their more detailed consideration justified.

The first templates of this type appeared long ago: several decades ago. The material of such devices was paper, which naturally affected the quality of the procedures. Being very soft, such forms often crumpled, which is why the building had to be started anew. Gradually, primitive paper templates were abandoned in favor of more advanced products, the material of which made it possible to simulate the tips of various shapes and minimized the chance of creasing to a minimum.

Depending on the application, the lower forms are single and reusable. The former, also referred to as soft, have a reasonable price and do not provide for reuse. Such patterns are very popular, and the materials used for their manufacture can be:

• paper with a polymer or metal that is applied to the contact layer;
• high molecular weight compounds or plastic (often such forms are transparent, which is especially important for masters of modeling and design);
• the thinnest metal sheets (foil);
• a combination of the above options.

As for reusable lower forms, in most cases metal or Teflon (a polymer also known as fluoroplast-4) is used for their manufacture, while plastic is used much less frequently. Such products are ten times more expensive than disposable templates, however, due to their durability, they quickly pay back the money invested in them.

Another tangible advantage of reusable forms is the lack of tendency to deform., the appearance of gaps and the penetration of modeling material into the resulting "gaps". To achieve the best result, it’s enough for the master to choose a template that perfectly matches the client’s fingernail. Reusable extension forms are used in the same way as disposable ones. Their only difference is the need for disinfection carried out after each completed procedure.

Externally, such patterns are similar to tips and represent blanks made of silicone. They began to be used relatively recently, and their main advantage is the simplicity of the building. Especially these devices are appreciated by beginning masters who want to get nails of the same shape and reduce the amount of consumable materials. Using the upper templates is extremely simple: just apply gel or acrylic to them, and then firmly press them to the nail plate. After waiting for the modeling material to solidify, it remains to remove the mold, spending ¾ hours on the entire procedure.

Given the speed of execution, which distinguishes the method in question, many experts call it "express build-up." In addition, working with the upper forms is very profitable: being several times more expensive than disposable templates, they easily withstand up to 40 uses. Despite the fact that the upper forms are very similar to liquid tips, their application technologies have one key difference. By means of the former, modeling of the finished nail with a glossy surface is performed, while the latter only form the substrate, which must be covered with gel.

One of the main criteria determining the choice of the lower template for building is the shape of the planned nail.To solve this problem, just look at the markup of the used products: divisions that allow you to lay out the material with maximum convenience. When choosing the most suitable option, experts recommend taking into account the following rules.

• If you need to make nails that have a square shape, it is most rational to give preference to patterns with lines intersecting at right angles.
• In a situation where square nails need to be given a “softened” shape, it is justified to use patterns with slightly curved transverse lines.
• In order to build up the nails of an almond-shaped or oval shape, it is advisable to use patterns, the transverse lines of which are distinguished by a strong bend.
• Creating nails in the form of a stylet involves the use of patterns, the marking lines of which converge at an acute angle. Experience shows that such devices are also suitable for other variations of nail extensions, for example, sharp or oval.

As for the lower patterns, which can be called universal, those are oval shapes. They can be used in the vast majority of situations, allowing you to create nails in almost any architecture. For building on the legs, special lower horseshoe-shaped patterns are needed. Such devices allow you to successfully perform both gel and acrylic modeling, but it is hardly possible to build nails on the hands with their help.

Choosing the upper forms, attention should be paid to their size. To avoid creases, the templates used should cover the sides of the plates without tension. It is also worth considering that such forms are not recommended for use with trapezoidal or too wide nails. Choosing templates of the most suitable form, professionals are advised to be guided not only by taste preferences, but also by the convenience of wearing extended nails. The latter depends on the woman’s lifestyle and characteristics of her work: circumstances, ignoring which can cause many inconveniences.

Having decided on the most suitable forms, you can proceed to the building procedure. For the lower templates, it assumes the following sequence of actions.

• The use of an antiseptic. Hand treatment with such a tool avoids the development of infection that penetrates through microscopic damage to surface tissues.
• Preliminary manicure. This event involves the removal of the cuticle, cutting off the free edge of the nail to a length of 1-2 mm and grinding the plate for optimal contact with the modeling material.

• Treatment of the nail with an adhesion base: a liquid product, also called a primer.
• Attaching a template. The latter must be squeezed until it becomes oval and put on the finger so that it looks like a continuation of the nail plate. To achieve the best fit in size and shape, the template can be carefully adjusted using scissors (provided that it is not reusable).

• If it was not possible to achieve the correct form setting from the first attempt, the operation must be repeated until the desired result is obtained. As soon as the template clearly matches the nail, it must be firmly fixed to avoid spreading the modeling material.
• Application on the form of a gel or acrylic using an appropriate brush. In order to give symmetry and the required length to the nail being extended, the master should take advantage of special divisions applied to the template used by him.

• If the expandable nail is long, experts advise applying the material in 2 layers.
• UV treatment of the nail. This step allows to reduce the pour time of the modeling material.

• Form removal. This operation must be carried out carefully and only after the nail has finally hardened. If the form does not lag behind, it is necessary to dry the material in a UV lamp.
• Elimination of minor defects. To give the extended nail a perfect look, it is necessary to carry out its final processing, performed with the help of a buff.

Noteworthy is the second option for solving the described problem, involving the use of upper templates. Nail extension with their help is performed according to the algorithm presented below.

• Preliminary preparation. It is carried out in the same way as in the case of the lower forms.
• Choosing the right patterns. The main criterion to be considered is the width of the nail plate. It is also worth remembering that between the last and the applied form there should be a place for laying out the modeling material.
• Application of the base on the nail. This material should cover the entire surface of the plate with a uniform thin layer (it should not be dried).

• Laying modeling material on a template. To ensure intermediate polymerization, it is necessary to place the nail under a UV or LED lamp.
• Applying the mold to the nail plate. Experts recommend performing this procedure so that the edge of the template fits the cuticle area at an angle of 45 °. Further, it remains to carefully press the used device to evenly distribute the material.
• UV treatment of the nail. If the latter has a high power, the final gel hardening occurs after 3 minutes.

Next, the master needs to remove the upper template and perform the final correction of the free edge of the nail. As for the surface of the extended plate, it turns out to be very smooth, and it does not need to be processed. In conclusion, it remains to cover the nail with a finishing layer (to give it an effective glossy shine) and treat the cuticle with a small amount of cosmetic oil.

Professionals identify several basic rules for nail extension using forms, the list of which looks like this:

• Prior to the procedure, it is necessary to disinfect not only the tools, but also the hands;
• during and after building, the room should be carefully ventilated;
• the use of materials whose expiration date has expired must be discarded;
• Performing the buildup, the master must adhere to the technology clearly, not ignoring the procedure provided for by her;
• carrying out the described procedure involves the mandatory use of gloves;
• To enhance the health of the nail plates and the skin of the fingers, it is worth processing them with nutrients.

In addition, the client should be warned about the precautions observed during the first days after building up. They provide for the protection of nails from exposure to high temperatures and prolonged contact with water. Also, when carrying out the nail extension procedure with their own hands, experts advise to adhere to the following recommendations:

• in order to make out subtle transitions and steps, the nail plate must be viewed from all possible angles;
• after treatment with a nail file, it is necessary to get rid of the formed nail dust, removing it with a brush;
• gel-based materials should be distributed with the tip of the brush, from the center to the edges.

If you need to perform nail extension, but the performer does not have ready-made forms, it is reasonable to use home-made templates. You can make them from a dense foil, which almost every housewife has, or another material that is soft and smooth.At the same time, experts do not recommend using forms made of plain paper, oilcloth or cellophane instead of ready-made templates. Having decided on the suitable material, it remains to put it in several layers, cut the blanks and mark them.

An alternative to the solution described above can be tips - finished plastic products, which are glued to the nail plates and cut to the length and shape necessary for the client. This technique involves applying gel or acrylic on top of the applied structures, and the final result of such a procedure can rarely boast of particular elegance. Thus, it is permissible to use tipsa instead of forms, but to achieve a natural look of nails with their help is extremely problematic.

Sometimes it happens that the materials on the nail plate peel off, change color, fall off or become covered with cracks. As a rule, the cause of such troubles is a violation of the rules of the procedure by the contractor.

To avoid this, you must:

• Prevent air from entering areas affected by modeling;
• refuse to use worn and / or blunt tools;
• select only those patterns, the use of which cannot lead to the formation of gaps;
• clearly form the center of gravity of each nail being extended;
• thoroughly clean the treated surfaces before starting the procedure.

Separately, it is worth mentioning situations where extended nails suffer from two misfortunes at once: yellowness and the appearance of cracks. Most often, this becomes a consequence of sudden temperature changes, which should be avoided if possible. To summarize, we can confidently say that the use of forms is rightfully considered one of the most progressive nail extension techniques. Master it for everyone who has patience and is ready to abide by the rules of this procedure.

See how to set up nail extension forms in the next video.