Nail extension: features and technique

Most of the fair sex consider very long beautiful nails very feminine. But not everyone is naturally given strong nails of a beautiful shape. Weak nails rarely manage to grow to the desired length. Weakened plates begin to exfoliate, cracks appear. A damaged nail spoils the general appearance of a manicure. We have to grow the length again. But sometimes it just does not have patience and even time.

The building procedure is carried out by salon masters for more than a decade in a row. According to certain technologies, the nails are coated with a special gel - a chemically created polymer that is identical in structure to natural nails. Because of this, it is considered the safest for application to nails.

Shaped Nails, allow you to create plates of the desired length and shape. They look elegant and natural, differing from natural ones only in greater strength and impeccable appearance.

Tips are special blanks made of transparent plastic, fixed on natural nails with special glue. They form the future tips of long nails, which are modeled with a thick gel. For very short natural nails, masters advise choosing tips.As a result, the extended nails will look very natural and demonstrate the ability to bend without breaking. Do not confuse them with fashionable in the past, false nails glued to the nail.

Shapes - original substrates under the free edge of a natural nail with windows for nail plates. During simulation, gel is applied to the substrate and the real surface. When polymerized in the light of a lamp, it will become the free edge of a gel-extended marigold. With the help of marking-graph paper, the length of the marigold is formed on the forms. At the end of the procedure, the forms are deleted. The advantage of marigolds created in this way is that they are more elegant than extensions on tips.

There are two types of forms. Disposable with paper or flexible plastic base. Thanks to the soft structure, they easily fit under the contour of a natural nail. But because of the softness, the most accurate “fit” is needed. And also their deformation in the course of building is possible. Reusable plastic or metal (teflon) molds. Their cost is an order of magnitude higher than that of paper counterparts, but repeated use in a short period pays for the full cost. With their use, deformation is eliminated, gaps and leakage of the gel are not formed.

It is important to choose the shapes that exactly match the outlines of the natural bed of the nail. Then there will be no problems with modeling an artificial nail. But it is worth remembering that all forms of reusable use require disinfection after each use. The gel, which is involved in the formation of nails, is considered the most plastic and environmentally friendly material. It is non-toxic and malleable in operation, does not require sawdust and is sold ready-made. The gel lasts from 3 to 4 weeks on the nails. Therefore, it is used for building by most masters.

A novice master is able to perform the procedure the first time. Therefore, girls most often go to learn how to build it with gel.

A number of advantages attract the attention of most clients.

• Fast execution. The whole process takes no more than two hours.
• The plasticity of the applied product provides flexibility and strength to extended nails.
• Due to the elasticity, the period of wear of gel nails is extended.
• The cost of gel building is lower in comparison with a similar procedure with other materials.
• Correction is carried out no more than half an hour.
• The natural surface of the plates is strengthened, under the gel they grow without the risk of breakage and separation.
• The drug fills the cracks and the relief of the nail plate, and it is leveled.

• With gel, a glossy shine appears on the nails.
• Gel nails are easy to remove.
• The material is breathable, the nail plate is oxygenated, not dried.
• Under the gel, natural nails are protected from the destructive effects of ultraviolet radiation, household chemicals and all kinds of mechanical damage. In this case, the material is recognized as hypoallergenic.
• The composition of the gel includes coniferous resin, and its bactericidal properties are the best prevention of the appearance of fungus.
• On a gel surface, you can realize any design idea.

The procedure still has some drawbacks.

• When drying the material under ultraviolet light, a burning sensation may occur.
• It is impossible to repair a broken nail. Only a new build will correct the situation.
• Without the help of the master, removing the extended nails without harm to them will not work. To remove it is necessary to cut off the gel coating so as not to damage the natural. This manipulation requires skill at a certain level and experience.
• Material may be damaged by sudden changes in temperature.

An effective long manicure is based on high-quality forms, the presence of all the necessary tools and tools for surface treatment and modeling of their length.

Regardless of the qualification of the master, you will need everything that is listed:

• disinfectant;
• fluid for express cuticle removal;
• special pusher or orange stick;
• manicure scissors and tweezers for the formation of periungual ridges;
• several files and buffs with varying degrees of abrasive;
• a brush for cleaning nails;
• a dehydrator or any degreaser of nails without oils and fats in the composition;
• primer - a liquid product designed for better adhesion of the gel to a natural nail;
• base and topcoat;
• polymer for modeling long nails;
• a set of brushes for easy application of materials;
• pigmented varnish, “camouflage”, shellac, any decor;
• lint-free wipes for removing stickiness and degreaser treatment of natural nails;
• UF-lamp (LED-device for this type of building is not suitable);
• forms or tips.

It is interesting to know about the intricacies of professional building-up for everyone who is only improving in manicure service. And even more interesting is for beginners who are going to independently master this technique.

Consider the phased process.

• Disinfection of the skin and nails.
• Carrying out manicure with the elimination of the cuticle.
• Shaping along the edge of the plate. Its length should not be less than 0.5 mm to fix the shape under it.
• Gloss removal from the natural surface with a special buff.
• Cleaning nails from dust with a special brush.
• Degreasing the surface with a dehydrator.
• Coating with an adhesion base (primer).
• Drawing a thin base gel layer on the "native" plate.
• Drying the coating under the UV lamp for about 3 minutes. (by the power of the device).
• Installation on nails forms.

With forms on a rigid basis, difficulties with their fixation on the free nail edge will not arise. You just need to pick them in size and fit the shape under the nails. When working with paper forms with manicure scissors, you need to adjust the window the size of a subungual arch. This stage is very painstaking, since gaps cannot be allowed, otherwise the gel will flow through the allowed gaps. This defect will become more apparent as the extended nails grow.

After the shape is fixed, you need to make sure that beautiful bends are obtained from the side and from the end. An even shape will look “clumsy”, and an excessively bent nail will create the illusion of a claw on the arm.

Step-by-step instruction on increasing the length of the forms dictates compliance with a certain course of work. The scheme consists in the sequence: 4 nails on the right hand, 4 - on the left, and only after that both nails on the thumbs. This is done so that during the simulation the gel does not drain from these fingers located at an angle. Beginners are advised to work out their fingers one at a time.

When disposable forms are too bent, you can fasten a couple of pieces together to get a more durable workpiece.

• Nail modeling with thick gel. Now it is important to strictly follow certain building rules. Conventionally, the surface of the nail is divided into 3 sectors.

• Cuticle area (one third of the area of ​​the “native” nail from the base).
• "Stress" sector (the remaining 2/3 of the natural plate, the border of the joining of the nail and the form and a third of the form). This region has the heaviest load, and this is where the name goes.
• Free edge (the rest of the form).

The technique of applying gel to forms involves a number of actions. The nail is covered with gel starting from a thin layer from the cuticle area with a smooth thickening upon transition to the stressful sector. This part of the nail needs to be “strengthened” with a small thickening, paying special attention to strengthening the junction of the natural nail with the shape - the greatest amount of gel is applied here.The future tip of the marigold is formed in a thin layer.

• Removing stickiness from artificial surface and removing molds.
• Grinding the extended nail to give it smoothness. The formation of the nail in a free contour according to the chosen shape. Here you may be surprised to remove the sticky layer before applying the color coating. Indeed, for ordinary gel manicure, this is unacceptable - the removal of dispersion weakens the adhesion of the layers. But when building the dispersion is removed to design an artificial plate with a file. In the opposite case, the correction will be difficult to stick funds on the file. To worry about the poor adhesion of the following layers and the gel surface is not worth it. A polished surface will contribute to the necessary hitching force.

• Application of pigmented gel polish or “camouflage”. They are applied in two or three stages, in layers, based on the color density. Each new layer is subjected to polymerization by a lamp.
• Design decoration of nails (optional).
• Application of the top and drying with UV light. It is better to hold the top in the light of a UV lamp twice as long as the rest of the layers. This is necessary for better polymerization.

• Stickiness removal.
• The final stage is feeding the cuticle with oil or cream, combined with a light massage of the hands and rollers around the nails.

It is necessary to use the thinnest plastic plates with an elastic structure. In form, they should repeat the outlines of the natural as much as possible. With flat or convex nails, it is worth using tips of a special shape. With an uneven natural surface, it is better to take glue-gel. It will fill all the hollows and give the plate a neat appearance.

Consider a step-by-step instruction.

• Arrange the tips in the order to glue them, not forgetting that their length can not be more than 2/3 of the surface of a natural plate. If the workpieces are of the wrong size, you must carefully trim them with a tip cutter.
• Wash and then treat your hands and nails with an antiseptic.
• Make a manicure and remove the cuticles. If even a small piece of skin remains, soon the tip will detach.

• Trim the nail to a length of 0.5 mm and treat with a nail file.
• Plate shine off polishing buff.
• Apply glue to the plastic blank. Lubricate with glue only the area that will be in direct contact with the nail.
• Gently press the tips to the nail plate and hold for 15 seconds. This is enough for a good fixation of the workpiece. If small bubbles are found, it is advisable to redo the work so that the manicure looks neat in the future.
• Finalize the glued plates. Tipsorez remove excess length, file a free edge with a file. In this case, the form can be selected as desired.
• To clean a surface with the polishing block.
• Smooth the border between the natural surface and the tips with a coarse abrasive file.
• Degrease the plates.

• Apply primer.
• The next stage is gel work. In turn, thinly apply layers starting from the center of the nail, retreating 1 mm from the cuticle and ridges.
• The greatest amount of gel should fall on the center of the nail.
• Dry each nail in a lamp for 3 minutes.
• Remove the sticky layer.
• To clean out a roughness with a nail file, including the sides and in the cuticle area. Process the edges of the nails as thin as possible.
• Thinly apply the finish evenly, paying attention to previously unfilled spots on the side rollers and cuticles.
• Dry the surface with a lamp. If stickiness appears, remove the unwanted layer.
• Oil the holes and cuticles.

The built-up transparent nails, although beautiful in themselves, but never remain without an attractive manicure. Few of the owners of chic long nails prefer a plain color applied with ordinary varnish. This, of course, is the most convenient and budget solution, but not for the sake of modesty such a length was created. The only exception is red. Even in monochrome it looks noticeable and advantageous.

Each year, the design of extended nails offers to try many new interesting options. Among them, for sure, it will be possible to choose new products suitable for each owner of long gel nails. You can choose from the most natural and especially effective design options.

• French manicure. There are a lot of fans of the French technique, because for a long time they haven’t done it exclusively in pastel colors with a white free edge of the marigold outlined. There are so many variations in the design of nails that you can easily choose the right one for any outfit and mood. The hole in the jacket is made beveled to one side, decorated with rhinestones, sequins with sparkles. It is painted with bright varnishes or acrylics, glitters with silver, bronze, gold. Mainly only the neutrality of the general background is preserved. Most often, natural delicate colors are chosen to contrast with the decorative part of the composition.

• Lunar manicure. "Inverted" jacket, a very fashionable and sought-after solution for nail design. The lower hole on the nail is contrasted with the base color, for which bright shades are chosen. Often the hole is painted in one of the camouflage colors so that it looks natural. On such a manicure for a long time the border of the growing nail is not visible. This is a significant plus for which such a design is revered.

• Geometry. All kinds of lines, rhombuses, squares, diagonal intersections, circles - a wide selection of solutions. They draw contrasting colors on the main background or create an ornament with a special adhesive tape of metallic or gold color.

• Sweater nails or so-called "knitting" - A popular trend in nail design in the autumn and winter. Such 3D nail art captivates with its cozy beauty. Basically, for the "sweater" on the nails choose beige, pink, coffee shades. Often they are combined with drawings depending on the season. Matte nails alternate with a glossy finish. The only negative is that you do not want to hide such cute and well-groomed fingers in gloves.

• Ombre - A fashionable gradient manicure for lovers of everything unusual and attractive. Mixing contrasting or similar shades gives a stunning result. This is a great solution for festive and everyday events. Allowed a combination of varnish texture, a combination of gloss and matte finish. Gradient manicure looks good with rhinestones. You can make several color transitions on the nails.

• Wedding manicure - The choice of brides for the most important day in life. Here, extended nails are more important than ever. The same shape and length looks neat and festive. As a design, they use modeling, flowers, lace, butterflies, drawings of rings, doves, rhinestones, shiny elements. The main colors are white, cream, natural camouflage, pale pink, peach.

How long your nails look attractive after extension depends on their handling. The artificial surface needs care no less than natural. Gel nails should be handled with care, avoiding sharp bumps and the effects of force on the plates.With caution, you need to press buttons with long nails, fasten buttons and zippers. Gnawing gel-grown nails is not at all permissible!

If they are not handled correctly, the tips gradually exfoliate, the gel becomes cracked, and the nails hurt.

To prevent nails from being problematic, you need to observe hygiene. In no case do not miss the stage of processing nails, hands and tools in the process of building. The introduction of a fungal infection entails great troubles for the health of nails and the body as a whole. Gel nails require periodic correction. It is better to do it twice during the first month after building, then monthly. The exception is breakdowns or other problems with the nails.

Use metal files to process gel nails is not permissible. For this purpose, you need to purchase a finely abrasive file. For cuticle care, it is optimal to use liquid remover and softener oil.

Gel nails should not contain acetone. It damages the polymer and makes it dull. It is important to choose professional pigmented varnishes without acetone. The same goes for nail polish remover.

In addition, gel nails react negatively to acids and alkali, which are saturated with most detergents. Only housekeepers or a more budgetary option - rubber protective gloves will come to help women in maintaining beautiful marigolds. Such simple recommendations will help to keep the extended gel nails in perfect form for a long time.

• A very beautiful look has a manicure on long nails, made in two colors of a similar shade. It is suitable for everyday wear and for any occasion in life.
• Two-tone manicure in contrasting colors is no less good-looking, but requires external matching in the details of the image.
• The stamping made in compliance with the color contrast will look original on the nails.

Seasonality also matters in design choice.

• In winter “Knitted” patterns, snowflakes, the image of Christmas toys, a lot of brilliance and cool shades are relevant. Blue in different shades, silver, gold, red, juicy green - the color of needles. The main tone of the manicure also depends on the symbol of the year and its accompanying colors. Drawings also often choose to suit him.
• Fall prompts to lean towards yellow-coffee scale. Frequent marigold decorations are leaves of all shades of autumn, bronze overflows, matte surfaces in combination with brown or red gloss. The color of ocher, ripe mandarin, wet asphalt, saturated cappuccino is popular among women.

• Summer design is almost always associated with turquoise, blue, white and neon colors. On the nails depict anchors, gulls, palm trees, boats, shells. Girls live in anticipation of vacation and long-awaited vacation. Feet "in the subject" cheer up in anticipation of relaxation.
• Spring - a mix of all design options on the nails. But still delicate colors, flowers, mint, peach, all shades of pink, coral predominate. This is a kind of spring classic, associated with the awakening of female sensuality along with nature itself.

If you are lucky to find an experienced craftsman, artificial nails delight clients for a long time with durability, the same length, the correct shape and beautiful design. Women speak positively of such nails, mostly complaining of their inaccuracy or untimely correction in case of breakdowns. In general, the extended nails only please with a long toe, ideal coating grip and length. They give the hands a well-groomed look, visually lengthen the fingers, making the hands more feminine and younger.

Gel polish on such nails does not wear off like regular varnish.Therefore, there is no unnecessary expense for applying nail art from the master. The coating holds firmly and is worn until you want to change the design.

Self-application of the gel on tips or forms is difficult for only a few beginning masters. Experience comes to work, so in a short period of time, self-taught people can get the hang of carrying out the process without problems. And those who attend special courses on building, and do the job perfectly.

In addition, building your own nails is not only interesting for self-development, but also beneficial for the budget. They will have to spend large amounts of money only once, and after that they will only bribe varnishes to realize new ideas. Buffs, nail files, degreaser, top and finish - this is what will last for a long time. A lamp and reusable forms, in general, are a one-time contribution to nail beauty.

Masters praise the gel for its plasticity and non-toxicity. Prefer it for the lack of dust from sawdust surface, unpleasant odor and self-drying. It is pleasant to work with polymer material, to create a modern design on a smooth surface. The process is not too tedious, which allows you to accept a large number of clients. It is profitable and interesting to any developing master.

Therefore, gel building continues to improve and is becoming increasingly popular in the field of nail service. There are new ideas for manicure, trends in giving certain forms to plates, more advanced and flexible materials. Women have plenty to choose from, and they do it with pleasure.

About arched nail modeling - in the next video.