At the beginning of the last century, hairdresser Nessler created a device for perms, which made a real revolution in the beauty industry. Women did not spare hair, the structure of which was damaged a lot during curling, but the effect was impressive. A century has passed, and those wishing to become owners of curls have not diminished. But technology has changed. Today, biowaving can be therapeutic, which is clearly demonstrated by Japanese technology.
Features
The main principle of this method is the most careful attitude to the hair, while the effect of the hairstyle lasts a long time. The unique composition used in the Japanese chemical wave perm allows even women with thin and weakened curls to resort to this procedure. But tough, stubborn hair also perceives Asian technology well.
The essence of bio-curling, created in Japan, is reduced to changing the structure of the hair itself without exposure to alkali. Base component selected matrix. Technologists managed to synthesize this intercellular substance from human hair cells. It is the matrix that perfectly straightens and renews sulfide bridges (the so-called connection between the flakes) without the destructive effect on the keratin layer.
The composition of the curling mixture also includes other substances.
- Keratin. This is a protein substance, 90% of the structure of human hair. It is responsible for the strength and elasticity of the hair. Thanks to the keratin ingredient, Japanese biowaving is considered healing and gentle, in contrast to the inexpensive alternative “chemistry”.
- Betaine. This substance is a natural moisturizer for hair.Without it, in hot weather, curls could quickly turn into straw. Betaine, in addition to organizing the supply of moisture to the hair, also neutralizes the level of homocysteine, a toxic agent.
- Amino acid cystine. Significantly improves the structure of hair, catalyzes regeneration processes, and silicon, also contained in the mixture, cements the effect.
- Lecithin. This is the main component of cell membranes in the human body, perfectly nourishes the hair.
- Wheat Proteins. Protein molecules perfectly condition the hair, strengthen it, reduce the aggressive effect of external negative factors on the curls.
The matrix (in conjunction with a perfectly selected auxiliary composition) seems to stretch the hair, which makes it possible to simulate curls of the desired shape. The effect lasts up to six months: after 5-6 months, the stretched scales again return to their usual position.
Advantages and disadvantages
The main advantage of the drug, with the help of which the hair takes the desired shape, is its lipid complex. Indeed, it is able to revitalize the hair, restore the structure and even fill microcracks in it, moisturize and protect from negative influences from the outside. Often the Japanese wave is called amino acid, neutral. The fact that developers abandoned alkali is the main plus of this method.
But there were some flaws.
- No matter how the structure of the hair changes, it is always a stress for it. Therefore, the ideal solution is to maintain a natural structure by choosing the right care and styling products. But if a perm aesthetically makes your hairstyle more effective, then for safety reasons do not do “chemistry” more than twice a year.
- The price of Japanese biowave is quite high. On average, such a procedure will cost a client of a hairdressing salon 7-9 thousand rubles, and this is according to the most conservative estimates.
- After the curls have acquired a different structure, care for them will change. The specialist will recommend a new shampoo, balms and fixatives to the client. This is done not so much for hair restoration, but for prolonging the effect of curling.
- The comb will also have to be changed. A massage brush will not work, you need a comb with rare teeth. Wooden models are preferred.
- It is forbidden to blow dry your hair. If you want to speed up the drying of hair with a hair dryer, the curls will not last 5-6 months, they will straighten much faster.
The disadvantages of Japanese technology are few and subjective. If the ratio of advantages / disadvantages in favor of the first paragraph, you can go to the hairdresser.
How is it different from usual?
In contrast to neutral waving - alkaline and acidic. The first in the ranking of the most harmful curls. As part of it, ammonia, which prettyly loosens hair. This is necessary so that the active mixture penetrates into the structure and consolidates. As a result of such a curl, the cuticular layer is significantly affected, the curls become dry and porous. If the master does not have enough experience, the risk of “burning through” the hair is very high.
Acid curl is softer in its action, but unlike alkaline, it does not do without high-temperature exposure. Therefore, the alkaline method is called cold, and the acid is called hot. But you can’t call him sparing either, although he dries his hair less. A significant minus of the acid wave is its fragility, with a new hairstyle you can go a little more than a month.
The Japanese wave (also called matrix) wins against its competitors. The fundamental difference between this technology is that the composition does not destroy the hair, but stretches it. Two distinct advantages of a matrix curl are the minimum negative impact on hair and firmness. They became the reason for the popularity of the method, and cheaper options are a thing of the past.
What tools do they use?
For hairdressers offering the Japanese biohairdressing service, the price should indicate a specific base treatment. For example, Evolution Goldwell.This is an innovative composition that will suit the curls of any structure. The main effect of the treatment-modeling mixture is the technology of self-regulation with a patented system of cationic polymers (which protects even very damaged hair fragments).
Right during the procedure, the client’s hair is conditioned and moisturized. The product does not have a characteristic chemical smell, the aroma of the mixture is pleasant, unobtrusive, it is associated in many with spa treatments for hair.
Experts advise combining a perm with a keratin prosthesis preceding it, if the hair is very weak and depleted.
Another possible composition of the Japanese perm is Tocosme. As a basic ingredient taken cysteamine hydrochloride, which is a synthetic substitute for the amino acid cysteine. It transforms the structure of the hair only partially, without acting on the core, therefore the effect on the curls is gentle. Keratin-2, also present in the formula of the mixture, renews molecular bonds in the hair.
The composition of Tocosme has been generously supplemented with a selection of nutritious herbal oils. They allow you to protect your hair as much as possible during the procedure. Equally well stretchable and short hair, and long, and thick, and thin.
The technology algorithm with any composition will be almost the same.
- First, the master diagnoses the condition of the hair and scalp of the client. If there are fresh wounds, abrasions, irritation, the procedure can not be performed. And also the assessment of the field of work helps to choose the optimal composition.
- The next step is washing your hair. If you apply the compounds to dirty hair, then a thin greasy layer will not allow the mixture to penetrate the hair structure.
- Using bobbin-curlers, the master models curls at the request of the client. You can make curls of different sizes.
- After all the curls are wound on whooping cough, the master applies the selected composition to them - it must be kept for a certain time (depends on the drug).
- Then the hair is thoroughly washed with a special keratin shampoo, a fixative is applied to the curls, which is responsible for the resistance of the new hairstyle.
- Hair is dried with a hairdryer (at this stage it is possible), moisturized with a spray.
The duration of the procedure is about three hours. This moment depends on the length and density of the hair, the selected composition, the skills of the master. But reckon on less time is not worth it, the process is difficult to speed up.
You must not wash your hair at least two days after curling. You should refrain from moisture and steam. These days, try not to get in the rain, not to wear heavy hats, not to stay in the kitchen, where the oven works without a hood.
Who can do it?
This perm is suitable for almost everyone, and its therapeutic component allows even women with thin, weakened, lifeless hair to turn to the master. For a long time, the owners of stubborn hard hair could not even dream of biowaving, not a single composition showed convincing results. Japanese technology has been tested on a huge number of women with hard hair: in Asians, this structure of curls is common.
Even those who have recently suffered unsuccessful painting or highlighting, you can turn to Japanese technology. Often it is she who helps to revitalize dull hair, improve the image.
There are also contraindications to a gentle biowave.
- Gestation and lactation. If a woman is in a position, if she is breastfeeding, going to the hairdresser with such a radical goal as curling will have to be postponed. Theoretically, this can do much harm, it’s not worth the risk.
- Hormone therapy. It also includes oral contraceptives. The ban is not categorical, but many masters in this situation warn customers about a possible unpredictable result.
- Allergy to the formula. A woman should tell the master about a potential allergic reaction.
- Menstrual period. At this time, even the usual painting may be unsuccessful, curling - even more so.This is explained by special hormonal activity.
- Previous basma and henna staining. Natural dyes are so deeply embedded in the hair that any subsequent effect on the curl can come into conflict with particles of basma and henna. But this is not so much a ban as a warning, in each particular case the specialist will determine the risks.
If the client insists on a wave, despite the warnings of the master, you can make a control sample. The hairdresser forms a curl on one strand, according to the result, conclusions can be drawn. In the case of an allergic reaction, a preliminary sensitivity test is possible. They make it in the area of the elbow, the master applies a little composition to the skin and waits about 20 minutes.
To curl lasted longer, you need to take care of it. You can not wash your hair under strong pressure of water, do not beat the shampoo to volumetric foam, it is not recommended to rub your hair with a towel. Since curled hair is often confused, each shampooing session should include the use of a conditioner - this makes combing easier.
Japanese technology biohairing is definitely less dangerous than its somewhat outdated counterparts. The method allows you to transform hair of different types, different lengths and densities.
According to experts, women who once tried to transform with the help of the Japanese therapeutic perm, rarely refuse to repeat experiments.
About how the procedure of Japanese chemical perm is performed, see the next video.