Today, there are many hairdressing procedures that allow you to change the appearance of hair not only with a haircut, but also curl or, conversely, straighten curls. The list of services due to which you can temporarily change the structure of the hair shaft, making it straight and smooth, it is necessary to include chemical straightening. You can achieve a similar result in salon and home conditions, resorting to the use of specialized compounds.
What it is?
A modern hairdressing service, which is called chemical or permanent straightening, allows you to change the structure of the hair shaft. As a result of the action of specialized compounds, it is possible to make curls even even after perming or you can turn hair curly from nature into smooth locks. Translated from Latin, the word "permanent" means "permanent." Based on the name, it can be understood that the result of straightening will be permanent. This is due to the presence of chemicals that destroy the disulfide bonds inside the hair shaft. The reaction occurs with natural keratin, which is the main component of the hair.
The compositions used in the process of chemical straightening, have the most gentle effect on curls, and natural components provide strands shine, smoothness and well-groomed appearance, reminiscent of the result after salon styling. Since the procedure provides a lasting effect, during the natural regrowth of the hair, it will be necessary to carry out correction of the root zone, especially if the work was carried out with curls that are naturally curly. Chemistry of the last generation does not deform protein compounds in the hairs, but acts only on disulfide bridges. And the destruction of cystine and its derivatives is compensated by protein complexes of a different type, which provide elasticity to the curls.
It is cysteine and its derivatives that disappear from the structure of the hair rods that no longer allow the hairs to curl. However, only a correctly selected composition for fixation during permanent straightening is able to have a minimal negative effect on curls.
The straightening gives the following results:
- hair will become straight for a long period;
- hair rods will gain additional shine and smoothness;
- to some extent, the cut ends can be removed.
For chemical straightening, in addition to the desire of the client himself, there are such indications as:
- It is recommended to use the service with too curly and damaged curls;
- most often it is possible to remove traces of perm;
- Permanent straightening is indicated for haircuts that require daily styling in order to give the strands a uniform appearance.
Contraindications to such manipulations with the hair are the following:
- temporarily refuse contact of the hair rods with chemicals should be with severely damaged and weakened curls;
- straightening is contraindicated in violation of metabolic processes in the body;
- Japanese straightening is not carried out before the summer season;
- the master will refuse to work with bleached hair, during the pigment removal on which 9% or 12% oxidizing agents were used;
- straighten hair rods after highlighting or blonding is possible no earlier than six months later;
- contraindications to the procedure will be the presence of allergic reactions to any component present in the composition of the drugs used;
- straightening is temporarily contraindicated during the period of bearing a child and breastfeeding;
- diseases of the epidermis, abrasion and trauma are contraindications;
- Permanent straightening can not be done immediately after perm.
Among the distinguishing features of this hairdressing service, it is worth highlighting such nuances as:
- hair can be straightened not only throughout the head, but also locally, making only bangs or hair rods in the root zone even; such possibilities are due to the universality of permanent straightening;
- despite the small aggressiveness of the fixatives used, the drugs used still cause certain harm to the structure and health of the hairs, in the light of which they will need special care;
- Despite the duration of the straightening effect, after a few months there will still be a need to visit the master again to correct overgrown roots that can spoil the appearance of the hairstyle;
- chemical straightening takes a lot of time; as a rule, the whole procedure on medium-length hair will last about 5-6 hours;
- hair after the procedure will maintain its even structure even with increased humidity;
- in order to consolidate the result, it is necessary to refrain from washing the head for 3-4 days after straightening;
- such a procedure would be more correctly entrusted to the master, at home there is a risk of errors associated with improperly selected fixation formulations that will cause serious damage to the hair.
Advantages and disadvantages
Any salon procedure with hair has its positive and negative sides. The advantages of chemical straightening include characteristics such as:
- in the process of working with hair rods, changes in them occur not only on the surface, but also inside the cuticle; thanks to the deep effect, subject to the correct proportions of the working composition, it will be much easier to comb and create different styling;
- after straightening, you can permanently refuse to use irons and pads;
- you can not worry about the appearance of styling, since the hair will remain straight under any weather conditions;
- as a rule, correction will be needed in no less than 5–6 months, and this procedure will affect only the grown roots, therefore, the hair along the entire length will not be exposed to chemistry.
The disadvantages of permanent straightening include nuances such as:
- this service in terms of a beauty salon will stand out at a high cost;
- the clips used contain dangerous components that can cause burns on curly curls that are too tight;
- after straightening, hair will require specialized sulfate-free care products.
Varieties of procedure
Permanent straightening can be classified according to the type of composition used. Today, manufacturers offer several product options.
- Sodium hydroxide based fixers. These substances belong to the group of aggressive substances, since alkali can corrode the structure of the cortex. As a rule, such tools are used to work with curls after perms.
- Products based on guanidine hydroxide. They are distinguished by a moderate degree of aggressiveness; they are absent in alkali. Substances dry out the hair quite a lot, so after using it you will need to regularly moisturize the curls.
- Compounds based on ammonium thioglycolate. These are modern products for straightening strands that act very quickly on the hair. Typically, the master applies the funds from this series for strands that are distinguished by the minimum presence of curls.
- ISO amine based fixers. These are substances of a new generation that do not contain acid or alkali. They allow you to make hair smooth, as well as get rid of split ends.
- Means containing ammonium sulfide and disulfide. Such fixatives are recommended for weakened hair, as well as dyed hair. The result of their use will be a slight straightening effect, which has a minimum duration.
Means for straightening
Among the most popular means for straightening hair, it is worth noting several options.
- Goldwell. This is an elite class Japanese technology that stands out for its long lasting effect. After using funds from this line, correction of straightened hair will be needed no earlier than after 1 year. The fixatives are additionally enriched with alkali proteins, betaine, keratin, vitamins and essential oils. After straightening and simultaneous recovery, the curls can be dyed or laminated.
- CHI Transformation. This is a popular system that is also distinguished by the content of additional natural ingredients. Among them, it is worth noting olive oil, aloe vera, extracts of various herbs and algae. Clamps are produced by American companies. Drugs can work with bleached and damaged hair.
A feature of the technology is the use of fixing forceps at the end of the procedure.
- LakMe K-Straight Ionic. Clamps have a gentle effect, do not contain formaldehydes, so they can be used on any hair. Straightening the structure of the hair rods occurs due to the penetration into the depth of a special lotion with ceramides. The result is stored on the hair for about 3 months.
- Relaxer This is a composition based on sodium hydroxide without ammonia. The manufacturer offers hair masters three specialized series that are recommended for different types of hair rods.
Execution technology
The straightening process consists of several successive steps.
- First, the master must assess the condition of the hair, based on which to choose the most effective composition. After choosing the product, the skin on the head is smeared with petroleum jelly or other fatty composition, which creates an additional protective film on the surface that can prevent burns in case of accidental contact with chemistry.
- Further, the strands along the entire length are treated with an emollient. After that, the entire volume of hair is divided into strands on which the reagent is applied.
- After a quarter of an hour, the hair is washed and leveled with a special ceramic iron. The result is fixed with a latch.
- The next step will be washing the curls to wash off the rest of the fixative from the surface of the hair rods. After washing, a special restorative preparation is applied to the hair to neutralize the alkali.
- At the final stage, they wash their hair with shampoo and balm.
Possible negative consequences
Despite the fact that modern products for straightening curly strands have natural components in their composition, chemical components still cause some harm to the hair. It lies in the fact that due to the receipt of smooth hairs, they are destroyed. To return the curls to their original state, you will have to cut them, wait until the effect of straightening completely grows. After the strands become smooth, the volume of the hairstyle will noticeably decrease. The effect of chemistry on the hair will require the use of specialized formulations for care, which will entail the need for additional costs.
Homemade hair straightening can cause serious damage to the hair shaft. In addition, with minimal experience with substances, it is possible to provoke a burn of the scalp.
Further hair care
Subsequent care for curls involves Compliance with the following recommendations:
- within 5 days after permanent straightening, you should refrain from washing your hair, as well as using hairpins and elastic bands, which can cause creases on the hair rods; Avoid high humidity and protect hair from precipitation;
- in the process of caring for straightened curls, it is necessary to use a brush with rare and soft teeth;
- curls will need a nourishing mask, which must be done at least 2 times a week, and it will be more appropriate to use baby shampoo to wash hair;
- you need to dry your hair naturally - without using a hair dryer.
Reviews
The available responses of girls who have tried the salon procedure of chemical hair straightening have a positive focus. Customers note a significant external transformation of curls, so that any haircut becomes more accurate. As a rule, subject to all recommendations regarding subsequent care, the result of straightening will please for 5 months.
Many women used the technique of local straightening on curly hair, when the work was carried out only with bangs. As a result, customers no longer need daily use of irons. At the same time, the natural curly curls in the remaining mass of hair were saved, which had a positive effect on the appearance of the hairstyle.
See how the procedure for chemical hair straightening goes in the next video.