In the summer, when the right weather finally comes for sunbathing, swimming and having fun at least on weekends on the shore of a lake or beach, it is impossible to imagine your life without a good swimsuit. A properly selected bathing suit will allow you to hide some of the flaws of the figure, if any, and emphasize the undoubted advantages. But if the stores do not have a suitable model - according to material, style, color or overall quality, it does not matter - you can sew a bathing suit yourself.
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We will consider all the stages of this process - we will select the appropriate fabric, type of bathing suit, its pattern, see master classes, and get a unique perfectly sitting model that will allow its owner to become the queen of the beach
What fabric can I sew?
The first step on the path to independent tailoring of a swimsuit is the selection of a suitable fabric. It is important to divide the fabric in two directions - elastic and inelastic. For a bathing suit, an elastic fabric will be optimal, since it:
- It absorbs moisture poorly and therefore dries quickly.
- It keeps its shape well (for example, lycra), which is especially important for one-piece swimsuits.
- It is not exposed to natural and chemical effects - they do not fade, do not fade.
- Suitable for any type of swimwear (knitwear, lycra).
Please note that when making a swimsuit from elastic fabric, all additional elements (such as linings) must also be made of elastic fabric or cut in a diagonal direction - this will also give them elasticity.
The main types of fabrics that can be found on the label are five:
- Lycra. It is used in the manufacture of almost all types of swimwear, as it is an elastic fiber capable of stretching and returning to its original shape. Typically, a swimsuit fabric is 20-30% composed of this material.
- Polyester. It has long been used in production, since swimsuits made with its use practically do not fade. Of its minuses, we can distinguish that such a swimsuit dries for a long time and quickly deforms.
- Polyamide. This type of fabric is used for the production of figure-correcting swimwear, which is due to its dragging properties. It dries quickly and is not subject to fading, but it is a brilliant material, therefore it is often used not independently, but in combination with lycra and elastane - this ensures its durability.
- Tactel. It is named so because it is very pleasant to the skin. Formed from the combination of lycra and knitwear. Its advantages are instant drying, elasticity.
- Microfiber. It passes air well, elastic and pleasant to the touch. It can stretch over time, so it is suitable for girls with constant body parameters.
Inelastic fabric can be used to sew a swimsuit that should not stretch (bikini). Such materials as piquet, denim, muslin, compressed crepe, chiffon, veil, piquet and others are suitable for them.
In addition to fused pieces of fabric, a swimsuit can be knitted with various threads or yarns. Such models are usually solid and have a lace insert that will add femininity. The threads for such a swimsuit should be selected according to the same principle as the fabric - they should be elastic, pleasant to the touch and durable.
Building a pattern of a one-piece swimsuit
Pattern swimsuit is a time-consuming process, as it includes many parameters. Here it is very important not to make a mistake in size, so as not to waste the fabric in vain, so that the model fits well, does not fall off when leaving the water and does not rub the skin.
To make it easier to draw up a pattern for a one-piece bathing suit, we will use the standard pattern for a dress pattern. We copy or redraw the front and back parts of the pattern, making sure that the mid-spins of both parts are parallel and that the lines of the chest, waist and hips (horizontal lines) are at the same level.
Now we find the point of the length of the seat. To do this, we will postpone the value of this length down from the waist line in the middle of the back, mark the resulting point and draw a horizontal line from it to the middle of the front of the future swimsuit - we get a line of the length of the sublingual fold.
Let's define the gusset line (this is an additional layer of soft tissue in underwear that provides comfort when wearing it). To do this, you need to postpone two points:
- the first is located down along the middle of the back of the leotard (from the point of the length of the hyoid fold, we postpone ¼ the length of the seat + 1 cm);
- the second is located down along the middle of the front part of the swimsuit (from the point of the length of the sublingual fold, we postpone ¼ the length of the seat).
From the resulting points, draw small horizontal lines inside the pattern, the length of which should be 3 cm each, and for 16 and 18 sizes - 3.5 cm each.
Unlike drawing up a standard dress pattern, when drawing a pattern for a swimsuit, you should not add additional centimeters for free fitting along the main lines (waist, chest, hips), even if the future swimsuit is made of non-stretch fabric.
Here, on the contrary, it is required to make the standard pattern narrower by the same values that were given at the very beginning of the construction:
- Narrowing along the back: along the lines of the chest and waist - by 2 cm; along the line, 3.5 cm above the hips line - 1.5 cm.
- Narrowing of the front: along the lines of the chest and waist - by 1.5 cm; along the line, 3.5 cm above the hips line - 1 cm.
The narrowing of the back is often done a little more than the front part, which is associated with the features of the figure.
The last action at this stage for the upper part of the swimsuit - focusing on the lines of the standard dress pattern, draw the side lines of the swimsuit.
Let's build a cutout for the leg. The standard depth for this cut is 3.5 cm above the hips. To determine the width of both parts of the swimsuit, we will use the already found parameter of the line of the length of the seat. From the middle of the back, it will be ¼ of the thigh circumference, divided in half, and from the middle of the front, it will be equal to ¼ of the thigh circumference, divided by 4 and minus another 0.5 centimeters.
Now we connect all the designations obtained - the extreme values located at the base of both sides of the leotard, with the points of the line of the length of the seat and the lower points located on the side lines. Reduce each of the resulting lines by half and designate the hole for the leg, correlating it with the outlines of the body in these areas.
Please note - the front cutout should be deeper. Orienting the lines on the sides and at the base, carefully look at the compatibility of the cut lines of both sides of the leotard, aligning them with each other.
Psharp gusset lining. On the front part of the drawing of the swimsuit, put 1 cm up, and then, using the first drawing as a sample, we denote the vertical lines for the lining. To make a lining without using an additional lower seam, we will transfer the existing parts of the lining from the first drawing and combine them along the bottom line.
Draw from the border of the base of the neckline in the center of the back of the swimsuit a line down 1 cm long and from it draw a horizontal line to the middle of the front part. In the middle of the diagram, draw a second line, which will be 2.5 cm lower in level.
Let us determine what width parameters the straps from the back should correspond to. The distance from the middle of the back of the leotard is 2/3 of the width of the back, and the width of the strap will be 1/3 of the width of the back. Set aside the necessary points and mark the neck and armhole down to the horizontal line of the bust.
Determine the width of the straps of the front of the swimsuit. According to the constructions made above, we will postpone the same distances (2/3 and 1/3 of the width of the back), then also draw an armhole and mark the neckline, which will be located above the chest level by 7 cm.
We check by imposing whether the lines obtained, the neck and armhole converge - first along the shoulder lines, and then along the side lines. Correct if necessary.
Depending on the material used for sewing swimwear, the direction of the thread on the details of the pattern changes - they should be indicated on the drawing in advance so as not to get confused later:
- For inelastic fabrics, an oblique cut is optimal (when the thread is located at an angle of 45 ° to the middle of one of the parts of the swimsuit);
- Inelastic but soft fabrics should be stitched parallel to the midpoints of the parts of the leotard;
- When using knitwear or other elastic fabric, which tend to stretch in two directions, the thread should be directed so that the parts are as elastic as possible in width.
To draw a chest tuck, with the help of carbon paper we translate the top undercut.
To determine the area in which the cups of the future swimsuit will be, draw a circle with a radius of 8 cm from the center of the chest (for size 12). For other sizes, it can vary by half a centimeter.
Carefully taking all the measurements and transferring them to the drawing, you can get a pattern of a perfectly fitting one-piece swimsuit.
Modeling a split swimsuit
A separate bikini swimsuit is one of the most popular types of bathing suits today. With him, most of the body is covered with an even tan, he also looks beautiful on girls with a good figure, since most of the body is open. Consider a pattern for a separate swimsuit with a bandeau bodice (strapless), which allows you to get a tan that fits any dress.
The top of the swimsuit is a simple strip consisting of front and back parts. The back stripe narrows to the middle, starting from a distance of 3 cm from the midline and further to the center. The front lane at the same distance increases, bends up.
Each strip is divided into two equal rectangles with the following parameters: length - half-circumference of the chest, multiplied by 0.88 minus 4 cm (shortening the length compensates for the stretching of the tissue); height - 12 cm. Add to this 1 cm each for overlock and hemming.
To sew a swimsuit with a bodice on the straps, make the following measurements: the perimeter of the chest along the lower part to the midline, longitudinal diameter. By these standards, the upper part of the leotard is embroidered with the addition of straps, a back strip and accessories. On the upper and lower parts of the cup are drawstrings for threading the ties.
Designing bathing shorts is a more complex and multi-stage process. So that they sit well, you can rip out the old bathing suit and the finished pattern. Knowing that this model will definitely sit well, sew the bottom of the swimsuit. If there is no such model, then the edits are modeled according to the measurements taken from the figure. Pay attention to the fabric from which the swimsuit will be sewn - if it is knitwear, then 10-15% of the length should be subtracted from all the parameters obtained so that it does not stretch too quickly.
Do not forget that, in addition to the main dimensions, you should leave small allowances in order to subsequently flash the fabric and insert the rubber bands.
See simulation examples in the photo.
How to sew a large size model for obese women with your own hands?
Choosing a swimsuit for overweight women often becomes a rather difficult task, since most stores cannot offer high-quality models of the correct pattern, which would model the figure and allow girls with any data to feel confident enough to go to the beach in summer. If there is nothing suitable in the stores, do not despair - you can always sew a swimsuit with your own hands.
First of all, pay attention to the choice of fabric for the future swimsuit. It should be elastic, but should not stretch much, otherwise it will stretch after the first swim. The most suitable fibers that should be present in the composition of the material are microfiber, tactel, lycra or elastane. Perfectly fit models containing polyamide in the composition - it refers to materials that can visually adjust the figure due to the dragging effect.
The next criterion is breast support. Here you can either remove the pattern on the cups of the previous swimsuit, if he kept the shape well, and make a pattern according to the actual sizes. Please note that the straps should be wide so that the shoulders visually look narrower and neater.
When choosing materials, look at the gum. Use made from latex, as they are not affected by chlorine and salt contained in pools and oceans and, therefore, will last longer.
High-waisted swimming trunks look very good on a fluffy figure - adding 10-15 centimeters to the main waistline of the pants gives a stylish model that visually outlines the figure.
Recommendations for tailoring a swimsuit:
- Make folds in the bodice between the cups, collect a little cane in the middle.Sew the resulting folds to fix and, if desired, decorate - so the model will look much more interesting.
- Shoulder straps should be wide for two reasons - so as not to create discomfort when worn and not to cut into the skin and so that the swimsuit looks neatly on the full figure.
- When patterning bathing shorts, regardless of the type of pattern selected, leave 3 additional centimeters for the elastic on the top line and be sure to leave allowances for the seams to be sewn.
- Do not bend the leg slots so that they do not rub the skin, especially after bathing.
- Follow the direction of the thread when sewing - when cutting, the loops on the knit must open from top to bottom.
Observing these simple rules, you can be sure that the swimsuit will be sewn correctly and take its rightful place in the summer wardrobe of its owner.
The best models of lush swimwear can be seen in the following video:
How to do push-up?
Push-up can be a solution to the problem for girls who, by nature, have small breasts, or breasts have lost shape after childbirth during lactation. Inserts visually raise the chest and make it a little larger, give it a neat shape.
The pattern of a swimsuit with push-up differs from a regular swimsuit only in the presence of foam inserts in the cups below - they give the whole visual effect.
To sew a swimsuit with the effect of breast enlargement on your own, you will need almost the same amount of effort, as when sewing a regular swimsuit such as a bikini. The whole difference is that between the main and lining fabric of the bodice, before stitching them completely, you need to put in special foam pads of the right size (corresponding to the size of the chest, so that it looks natural).
Thus, without much expense and effort, the famous push-up is made, which allows women with imperfect breasts to feel comfortable and confident in a bathing suit and giving the figure a seductive, feminine shape.
Sewing workshop
According to the girls who have already tried on their own sewing a swimsuit, the whole process takes 3-4 hours, including all stages - from building patterns to assembling the finished product. Considering that even more time can be spent in stores and nothing can be found, this is a very profitable time and money saving.
To sew a swimsuit (bodice) yourself, you will need:
- Knitted fabric (lycra and supplex).
- Threads matching the tone of the fabric (about six spools).
- Pattern, ready or taken by own standards.
- Scissors.
- Sewing machine.
- Elastic band 2 * 80 cm.
- Accessories for a swimsuit (clasp).
Sewing Stages
Print the selected pattern in full size, print, cut out all the details and attach them to the fabric. Cut out fabric details for a future swimsuit.
- The side seams of the cups of the bodice should be glued with a non-tearing lining in order to better keep its shape.
- Sew and smooth to the side of the tuck.
- We sew parts of the back to the cups, smoothing the allowances on the sides.
- We put the front details of the bodice together and stitch it from above along the edge. Cut off the allowance corner. We twist, iron.
- Sew the ends of the stitches.
- We pin all the details of the bodice and sew them on a typewriter.
- Overlock seams.
- Sew the strings made of braid 3 cm wide, treating it with a flat seam. This will allow the ties to be more elastic, and the seam will not burst when tensioned.
- Sew on the selected accessories - and the top of the swimsuit is ready.
To sew the bottom of the leotard, you will need the same parts and materials that were used for the upper part. Since the fabric can shine through, it is better to do swimming trunks using two layers of the selected fabric.
Assembly steps
- Sew in front and back with a short gusset.
- Sew a long gusset to the back with the front side inward.
- Sew seams on the sides, try on. If they sit freely, then we make seams away from the edge.
- Sew the belt, leaving room to thread the elastic. Choosing an elastic band across the width of the drawstring, you can be sure that the panties will fit tightly, and the elastic band will not twist.
- Sew the upper gusset along the upper edge of the front part.
- We distribute the belt evenly along the upper edge of the linen, pin it off with pins, then flash it.
- All slices are processed by overlock.
- We carefully sew all the other parts together, processing the edges and overlocking them for accuracy, and the swimsuit is ready.
So, doing everything sequentially, according to the recommendations presented, a swimsuit will surely work out even for those who worked very little on a sewing machine and generally sewed. The whole difference is that it will take more time for beginners, of course, but the result is worth it.
You will see even more master classes by watching the video.