Chemical peeling: when and how can it be done?

The term "peeling" itself means "scrape." Thanks to it, keratinized and dead cells are removed from the skin, as well as the process of restoration and rejuvenation of the skin. This procedure can be performed on any of the body parts that need it.

Peeling cleanses the skin. Due to the fact that dead cells are removed from the surface, new ones grow faster, the skin becomes healthier and smoother. You can do peeling with a laser, mechanically, chemically.

One of the most common methods of skin rejuvenation is chemical peeling. It effectively fights surface irregularities, removes traces of acne and post-acne, age spots, corrects wrinkles and does much more, in a word, it allows the fair sex (and sometimes the stronger half of humanity) to look young for as long as possible.

The essence of chemical peeling of any type is that various types of acid-based compounds in various concentrations affect the skin. These drugs can not only cleanse the skin of traces of acne or wrinkles, but also prevent their appearance in the future.

Given the seriousness of the procedure, it is desirable to undergo it in a clinic with a good reputation by a qualified cosmetologist.

Fans of this procedure will name a lot of its advantages.

Among them are such as:

• The skin is cleansed of the stratum corneum.Thanks to the acids that make up the peeling, dead epidermal cells soften and are easily removed. As a result, the complexion improves, and its relief becomes much smoother.
• Sebaceous glands begin to work better. Because of this, chemical peeling is indicated for people with oily skin. Acid-based formulations cleanse sebum from sebaceous glands, normalize its production and narrow pores. Due to this, the skin becomes smoother, and acne passes.
• Due to the renewal of the upper layer of the skin, a rejuvenating effect is achieved, and wrinkles are smoothed out. During the recovery period, the skin intensively produces collagen and elastin, making it more firm and elastic. So there is a correction of facial wrinkles.
• Cure other skin defects. In addition to the above, chemical peeling is often used to remove scars, scars and post-acne. In addition, it is effective for getting rid of foci of hyperpigmentation. This is due to the fact that the upper layers of the epidermis, after purification with acids during the renewal process, produce the melanin pigment.

If you accurately follow the protocol of the procedure and do not apply peeling to those people for whom it is contraindicated, negative consequences are excluded.

The disadvantages of the procedure include the following:

• Discomfort during the session. Even acid taken in the smallest concentration can burn, pinch or tingle the skin.
• Redness is a mandatory skin reaction to peeling. The duration of redness is individual, it can last from several hours to two to three weeks.
• Burn and crust on the face. As a rule, this is an individual skin reaction. It requires careful monitoring by a cosmetologist and receiving recommendations for proper skin care at this time.
• Peeling is a natural reaction of the skin to the action of acids. This cannot be avoided, so the peeling “works”. You need to constantly use moisturizers recommended by a cosmetologist.
• The sensitivity of the skin to the action of sunlight is increased. Therefore, staying in the sun without a wide-brimmed hat should be avoided, and in the period from noon to 4 p.m. generally try not to be outside during periods of solar activity.

However, there is such a thing as a post-peeling reaction.

It includes the following consequences:

• swelling of the face;
• hyperpigmentation;
• the appearance of blisters;
• exacerbation of herpes (if the virus is present in the body);
• itching, burning of the skin;
• chemical burn.

Chemical peeling according to the degree to which power acids act on the skin is divided into three groups:

• surface;
• median;
• deep.

Often this type of peeling is used in combination with other, more powerful types to prolong and consolidate its effect.

Mid-type peeling affects the epidermis - a layer that is affected by deep scars or wrinkles. This type of peeling is suitable for use at any age, even young.

As for deep peeling, this is the most radical effect on the skin, because it is when using this type of acid that all layers of the epidermis are processed.

Let us dwell on the most popular types of surface peeling.

Mandelic Acid Peelingobtained from the seed of the corresponding plant, acts slowly, because it is very soft in structure. It can be used even in spring and summer when the sun is active. There are no contraindications to its use.

Glycolic Acid Peeling acts differently: molecules penetrate the skin unhindered and quickly, providing a lasting effect of the procedure. This type of peeling is suitable for any type of skin, except very dark skin. It is ineffective for women older than 50 years.Glycol peeling is subject to all the standard limitations of the procedure. In summer, you can’t do it.

Such success provides the ability to fight inflammation, which, in turn, makes the skin smooth and uniform. Salicylic acid is an excellent remedy for acne, and not only for treatment, but also to prevent its occurrence in the future. You can not combine peeling based on this acid with zinc oxide.

Peeling can be carried out on the skin of any type, but for them (types) there is a classification:

• The skin of the first type is characterized by the absence of deep and facial wrinkles. Peeling is recommended to be superficially performed annually in three procedures to prevent signs of aging.
• The skin of the second type is characterized by the presence of facial wrinkles in the corners of the eyes at rest and deep - with the manifestation of emotions (laughter, smile, tears). There are also small age spots. For this type of skin, fruit acids and a course of seven procedures are suitable. Beauticians recommend repeating it once every six months.
• People with skin of the third type have wrinkles around the eyes, mouth, and also on the forehead at rest, in addition, impaired skin pigmentation. Representatives of the third type of skin recommend a combination of surface peeling using fruit acids with mid peeling using trichloroacetic acid. It is necessary to do the procedure regularly, the frequency is set by the cosmetologist, depending on the condition of the skin.
• The fourth type is characterized by the presence of deep and multiple wrinkles, as well as uneven surfaces and flaccid skin turgor. Pigmentation is impaired. As a rule, peeling using trichloacetic acid (at least three procedures) is prescribed for correction, then peels using glycolic acid are prescribed. This should only be done after consultation with a dermatologist and his control after each procedure.

The most difficult to correct (for obvious reasons) is the 4th type of skin, but with it you can achieve a visible result. Of course, at the age of 60, not a single peeling will make it possible to look at either 20 or 30, but it is quite possible to maintain the appearance and tone of the skin in a decent and well-groomed condition.

Any medical and cosmetic procedure has indications for use, and chemical peeling is no exception.

Age indications are as follows:

• people under 25 with the help of chemical peeling get rid of acne, acne, skin defects, as well as treat molluscum contagiosum;
• clients from 25 to 30 years old treat problematic skin, post-acne, age spots, actinic dermatitis, and also prevent early skin aging;
• Persons over 30 years of age get rid of age spots, keratosis, correct wrinkles, folds, remove warts and papillomas, and also prepare the skin for plastic surgery on it.

Acid-based peeling sessions are shown:

• persons who want to rejuvenate the skin, get rid of photoaging and adjust age-related changes;
• people with foci of hyperpigmentation on the face of various origins: freckles, chloasma, melasma or lentigo;
• persons suffering from acne and acne, as well as with rosacea (here you need to make a reservation that peeling is possible only if the acne is pink, that is, not inflamed);
• improvement of skin texture, narrowing of pores, tone leveling.

In addition, peeling can be a preparation for laser rejuvenation and photo rejuvenation procedures.

You should not think that only a face can be subjected to chemical peeling, although it is most often treated with acids.

The areas of the body where this procedure can be effectively performed are:

• hands in the area of ​​the hands;
• neck and décolleté;
• areas of the body that have scars, papillomas, age spots, stretch marks or acne.

For the skin of the body, the most appropriate is the middle type of peeling, since the surface peeling often will no longer solve the problems that the client has. Well, to get rid of stretch marks, median peeling is the best solution and obvious benefit.

There are two absolute obstacles to this cosmetic procedure: it is a high sensitivity of the skin and the presence of an allergic reaction to the components of the peeling.

Also, you do not need to combine this procedure with the use of substances that increase the sensitivity of the skin to the effects of sunlight - astacanthine, estrogen, tetracycline-based antibiotics, retinoids, antipsychotics, since there is an increased risk of age spots appearing on freshly peeled skin.

Chemical peeling is contraindicated in women during pregnancy and in nursing mothers. Also, the procedure is not performed for persons suffering from infectious and viral skin diseases, diabetes mellitus, systemic diseases in the acute stage, hypertension, coronary heart disease, as well as oncology of all kinds.

You can also not peel:

• if there are neoplasms of any type;
• if there are papillomas on the skin;
• in case the skin is damaged or irritated;
• the skin is affected by herpes in an active form;

• if the skin has increased reactivity and sensitivity;
• if there is an allergic reaction to the components of the peeling;
• if exacerbated acne;
• if recently conducted radiotherapy or the drug "Roaccutane" was used.

It is best to carry out procedures in the fall, when solar activity is on the decline. During the period of strong exposure to direct ultraviolet rays, the skin will recover for a long time after destruction by acids, which is why late spring and summer are not the best time to carry out these procedures.

The most common components of chemical peeling are alpha-hydroxy acids (ANA), beta-hydroxy acids (VNA), retinoic and trichloroacetic acids.

Hydroxy acids are divided into alpha and betahydroxy acids. The first is used in surface peeling. This type of acid includes glycolic and fruit acids - citric, tartaric, malic, and lactic.

As for formulations based on betahydroxy acids, they are more suitable for people with oily and / or sensitive skin, suffering from acne or acne. The well-known salicylic acid belongs to betahydroxy acids. Beta hydroxy acids penetrate deeper into the skin pores than alpha counterparts. Therefore, they can be used in a less concentrated form. The properties of salicylic acid, in addition to exfoliating properties, are antiseptic, it also dries up inflammation and is fat soluble.

Trichloroacetic acid most often used in a concentration of 25 to 30% for median peeling. If you take this acid in a concentration of 40%, it can be used in deep peeling. Often, preparations based on it are called blue peeling due to color.

Another “color” peeling is yellow. It consists of a mixture of retinaldehyde, vitamin C and acids.First, a person is “prepared” with a preparation based on glycolic acid at a concentration of 20 percent. Next, peeling with retinoids is applied. Kojic and phytic acids remove age spots, azelaic acid, in turn, regulates the degree of oily skin and fights against free radicals. The production of collagen is accelerated with the help of vitamin C, and thanks to retinoic acid, the secretion of sebum is controlled.

Despite the complex composition, chemical peeling can be done at home. It is important to observe the sequence of actions and the formulation of the drug.

To carry out chemical peels, three compounds are suitable on their own: based on fruit acids, lactic and almond.

Recipes for chemical peeling at home:

• Using aspirin. It will take 3 tablets of the drug, they need to be thoroughly crushed and mixed with 0.5 teaspoon of pure water. After mixing and forming gruel, add a teaspoon of natural (not whipped) honey. The mixture should be infused for 10 minutes, after which it is applied in a circular motion to the previously cleaned face, avoiding the area around the eyes. You need to keep the composition for 5 minutes, after which a light massage lasting about one and a half minutes is done. The mixture is washed thoroughly with plenty of warm water.
• Composition with sodium chloride, or more simply - with sodium chloride. One teaspoon of salt should be mixed with a tablespoon of 20% sour cream. The face should be clean and steamed. The mixture is applied to the skin with a cotton pad or ball, massaged for two minutes and washed off. Last rinse should be cool water. After it, you must definitely apply a rich nourishing cream.

• Another simple procedure is one ampoule of calcium chloride “Drive” into the face (applied in layers, waiting for the previous one to dry). 5-6 layers are enough. After that, the pads of the fingers are washed with baby soap and massage the skin until it begins to roll into small lumps. As a rule, the formation of spools is accompanied by a characteristic squeak sound. The remaining calcium chloride is removed with a damp cloth or disc, after which a nourishing cream or mask is applied.

• Salicylic acid peeling. To do this, you need acid in a concentration of 15-20%. It is applied with a cotton pad or swab to a clean face, it must be kept for about 20 minutes (no longer). After the specified time, the acid is washed off with plenty of cool water.

• To prepare activated carbon composition, coal, water and gelatin in crystals will be required. Crystallized gelatin is diluted in three tablespoons of warm water and mixed with half a tablet of coal, previously crushed. The specified composition is applied with a brush to a clean face. When the mixture has dried, the film is removed from the face.
• Retinol-based peeling (“yellow”). This peeling should not be confused with retinoic acid, which is based on an acid with the appropriate name. As for retinol, it consists mainly of vitamin A, there are no acids in it, so it is much milder. As for the more aggressive peeling with retinoic acid, it is not recommended to do it at home, as the supervision of a cosmetologist is necessary.

You can use ready-made drugs, a huge amount of which is now available for sale. This is popular among beauty bloggers, products based on acids from The Ordinary, cosmeceuticals (both economy and luxury), and Asian products. The products contain both alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and betahydroxy acids (BHA).

For each tool there is an instruction on how and when to use it. Having decided to do peeling on your own at home, you must strictly perform the specified sequence of actions.

If the skin is hypersensitive and prone to the appearance of irritations and rashes, it is better to opt for polyhydroxy acids (PHA): lactobionic and gluconolactone. They are similar in composition to ANA, but have a milder effect on the skin.

Anesthesia for a peeling session is not often needed, but the composition may cause a slight burning sensation. The deeper the peeling is done, the stronger the feeling. Therefore, median peeling is performed after a person has taken an analgesic and tranquilizer, and if the pain threshold is low, local anesthesia can be used.

As for deep peeling, it is carried out exclusively under general anesthesia. The procedure involves not only a professional dermatologist-cosmetologist, but also a plastic surgeon, as well as an anesthetist who monitors the patient's condition.

At the beginning of the procedure, the skin is treated with a composition based on either alcohol or acetone. Thus, it is degreased. Further, they provide protection to the eyes to prevent acid from entering them. After that, the peeling mixture is applied directly. After the allotted time, the solution is carefully removed, and protective and moisturizing preparations are applied to the skin.

Unfortunately, unpleasant consequences of peeling are possible. These include:

• Sore face. Most often felt after a median or deep peeling and lasts 3-5 hours.
• Skin redness. It depends on the depth of the peeling. Superficial peeling causes slight redness for several days, the middle and especially deep - intense red complexion lasting up to 30 days.
• Itchy skin, face very flaky. Usually surface peeling does not give such a “side effect,” but individual skin characteristics can cause peeling even after it.
• An allergy to peeling is not common, especially if an allergy test was performed at the bend of the elbow before the session. But in order to avoid undesirable consequences, if a person is allergic to anything, it is better to take antihistamines before and after the procedure.

In addition to the usual consequences, chemical peeling can cause a number of complications:

• A chemical burn is theoretically possible with a mid or deep peel. It comes from the wrong choice of composition, incorrectly calculated duration of the procedure. To minimize the risk of burns, median and deep peeling is best done by a cosmetologist with a medical education.
• Folliculitis or acne occurs if moisturizing and softening creams are used that are not suitable for the skin type after the procedure. To get rid of acne, you will need to take a course of antibiotics.
• Infection - bacterial or fungal. This complication occurs very rarely, but leads to scarring. Superficial peeling does not cause such complications. It is necessary to find out before the procedure what equipment and in what conditions it will be produced.

• An increase in herpes most often occurs if a person who does not have a human papillomavirus does not mention this to the doctor and, as a result, does not take the prescribed antiviral drugs or immunostimulants before, after and during the procedure.
• The appearance of age spots is usually a temporary phenomenon, but in some cases, spots persist for up to 2 years. They are treated with hydroquinone or other means of a similar effect.
• Loss of pigmentation in people with dark skin can persist throughout life.
• Asterisks of blood vessels. In another way, this phenomenon is called telangiectasia. Most often become visible at the end of the peeling. They are removed using laser therapy.

• The line of demarcation appears after the middle or deep peeling and marks the border between the area where the peeling was performed and where it was not.
• Scars are an extremely rare complication. Their harbingers may be a constant itch in combination with redness of the skin.

Median and deep peels are carried out only by dermatologists. When choosing a salon or clinic, you should pay attention not only to the reputation of the institution, but also to the qualifications of the master whom you plan to contact.

At least 7 days should elapse between treatments. It is important to remember that rehabilitation after one peeling session can take several hours or several weeks. It is necessary to provide for this and, if possible, limit the outlets to fresh air.

After the procedure, the face acquires a red tint, this should not be scared. To avoid irritation and rashes, you must clearly follow the instructions of the cosmetologist both before and after peeling: use a protective cream and moisturize the skin on an ongoing basis. If you decide to replace the cream with a similar one, it is better to consult a specialist who performed the procedure: can you change the funds, what can be considered analogues, will the effect of the replacement be all these questions should be asked to the doctor before doing anything.

Before the procedure, you need to test your skin for allergies: apply a small amount of the drug of the concentration that you plan to work on the back of the hand or bend your elbow, hold for about ten minutes, then rinse thoroughly and examine the skin for reactions.

Before visiting a beauty salon, you must bring your physical condition back to normal. You should have normal body temperature, working pressure, no signs of colds and skin diseases.

If the skin is unhealthy, peeling can not be done! Only acne is an indication for the use of drugs based on acids, any other rashes or wounds on the face - this is a ban on the peeling procedure.

It is important to remember that all chronic diseases that you did not tell the beautician about the presence, and the consequences associated with this, are not his fault.

The dermatologist makes the decision about the possibility or impossibility of carrying out the peeling procedure on the basis of information received from the client, and the more complete it will be, the better, first of all, for the client himself.

If peeling is recommended once a year, it is better to do it in October or November, if it is necessary to carry out the procedure twice a year, March will be the best time for repeated peeling.

The basic rule of any peeling: the composition should not burn the skin and should not cause pain. If the skin has a feeling of great discomfort, the skin “bakes”, it “burns”, you should rinse your face with large amounts of cool water as soon as possible and immediately apply creams with moisturizing and soothing effects.

At the end of the peeling procedure, you need to make sure that not a drop of the composition is left on the face.Even a small amount of acid mixture can cause irritation and cause a lot of inconvenience.

As a rule, women are more willing to try surface peeling, respectively, and there are more reviews about it. Since this is the least traumatic type of peeling, and the skin after it is restored faster, the fair sex, who have tried this procedure, note an improvement in facial relief, skin quality, narrowing pores and getting rid of small wrinkles.

In addition, a tangible plus of surface peeling is the fact that preparations with such properties are sold ready-made, and without having the desire to visit a cosmetologist, you can buy a miracle remedy and arrange a beauty salon at home.

You can learn more about chemical peeling in this video.