Of course, the corset is the main part of the wedding dress. He still remains stylish and not replaceable to emphasize the beauty of the bride’s figure. It can be decorated with embroidery, rhinestones, pearls, feathers, bows, which will make the dress more original and special. That is why when sewing a wedding dress, one of the key points is how to sew a corset with your own hands. This, of course, is not an easy task, which requires thorough preparation.
Kinds
When modeling an outfit, consider such nuances as the appointment of a corsage, material, type of figure. Also note that the main patterns of the corsage are equally suitable for an evening dress, wedding or everyday. It all depends on the decor and fabric.
Consider the main types of corset.
Decorative
This view is intended for girls with a figure that does not require adjustment. Often it is also called a corsage. Therefore, such a corset is classified as ordinary clothing. Perfect for brides with a perfect figure and pregnant.
Slimming
Designed for body shaping (shape changes): breast lift, waistline, back support. With such a corset, the bride is more graceful and elegant.
Materials
For sewing, they mainly use dense fabric (you can cotton) for lining, then the upper fabric (main) is sewn from the same fabric or from any fabric you like, for example, satin, guipure, lace. The advantage of the density of the fabric is that it will not give the product a wrinkled appearance and extra folds. If the corset is decorative, you can use silk.
Fittings include the following corset fasteners:
- locks;
- eyelets;
- ties for lacing;
- hooks;
- buttons
- whalebone for a tightening corset;
- spiral bones for curved seams;
- steel bones for straight seams. It is better not to take cheap plastic bones, since they bend and twist.
Lacing is done either in front or behind, or two at once. For tightening corsets, it is good in that you can adjust the force of tightening by adjusting the corset to the desired size, regardless of whether you recover over time or lose weight. The main thing is to know the measure and not go too far in tightening the corset.
It is better to buy bones already having a pattern on hand and naturally, knowing the length of the corset. Self-reduction of the bone can bring some trouble. Please note that the bone should be 2 cm shorter than the seam of the corset, so it will not be noticeable and will not tear the fabric.
You will also need such tools.:
- ruler;
- tissue hole punch;
- disappearing marker for modeling patterns;
- strips of cellophane;
- scissors;
- a hammer for securing the grommets;
- sewing machine;
- rotary knife;
Template selection
Having decided on the style, purpose of the corset (tightening, decorative), its appearance (modern, retro or even business style), chest cutaway shape, length, etc., try stitching it from cheap fabric as a mockup.
The advantage of the template is that it can be corrected at different stages of sewing. It will be harder to do with the finishing option. Also keep in mind that sewing a corset takes a lot of time and it is the draft version that will reduce it, especially if you are sewing it for the first time.
Taking measurements
What pattern of corset, dress, skirt or other type of clothing you would not choose, it should correspond to the type of your figure and fit the size of only your physique. This is the main rule.
To take measurements, measure:
- chest girth;
- waist circumference (in the place where you want to do it);
- girth of the hips (along the line of protruding bones);
- also measure the distance: the waist line is the point under the chest, the waist line is the bottom along the side seam, the waist line is the lower abdomen.
Modeling Methods
There are 2 ways to build patterns:
- Estimated - taking the necessary measurements, depending on the selected model and building patterns.
- Fake or tattoos - the method does not take much time (10-20 minutes depending on the complexity of the model), but accurate, taking into account the features of the figure. In this case, matter is injected directly onto a person’s figure or mannequin.
Building patterns in a fake way
Now the method of tattooing is gaining popularity. We will stop on it.
To make a pattern, prepare a mannequin, disappearing felt-tip pen and strips of cellophane 20 cm wide and 40-45 cm long. The number of strips depends on the planned number of parts.
- Draw a corset. Tie the shoelaces on a mannequin (you can use elastic bands) horizontally along the chest line, under the chest and at the waist, as well as on the abdomen (12-13 cm from the waistline).
- Draw erasable marker lines on the tied shoelaces, then remove them.
- Mark the side seams and the center of the front, back.
- Mark the embossed seams of the corset.
- Take the cellophane strip and attach it to the center of the front of the dummy. Draw the lines of the first part (from the fold to the relief) with a pen.
- Attach and translate the side part and the back part.
- Remove the parts and check for evenness of the relief line.
- Add seam allowances.
You will approximately get such a pattern.
The traditional way - settlement
We will simulate a corset template.
1. Take out the base pattern for the dress or build a rectangular mesh and mark on it the line of the waist, chest and hips according to your size, taking as an example one of the patterns. On the main pattern, transfer the lines and make embossed notches. Make a pattern, while be sure to make allowances for seams - 2-3 cm.
2. Transfer the pattern to the fabric of the corset template. Position the piece so that the central section of the back is parallel to the shared thread, respectively, the points of alignment of the details along the waist line are parallel to the weft threads. That is, the corset should not stretch along the waistline. Basically, the left side duplicates the right, so you can fold the fabric in two layers, if the material of the lining and the main fabric are different, and immediately cut a couple of details. If you sew from the same fabric, fold it into 4 layers, aligning the edges.
3. Open the fabric.
To make the fabric “sit down” better, soak it in warm water before sewing, after having numbered the parts.
Sewing
How to sew a corset:
1. Sweep the central template parts of the front with the side, as well as the central parts of the back with the side of the pad. Stack shelves with side parts of the back. Try on the product and make the necessary adjustments.
2. Sew and iron all seams.
3. Also do with the details of the main fabric. If there were changes in the lining, they are transferred to the basis.
4. Connect the outside to the lining.
5. Stitch the drawstring at the side seams and insert the bones into them. Their length should be less than the seam by 2 cm. The bones should be when sewing between the lining and the main fabric. Also note that the side seams of the two parts (back and front) must match. You can make drawstrings on both sides of the seam.
6. Rigilin can be sewn in instead of backstage. In this case, it is tuned to the lining and to the base, and after the details are connected. To do this, back away from the top of the side seam by 2 cm and fasten it with two lines. The ends of the regiline should be wrapped with masking tape. Be sure to make upper and lower tack.
Fastener design
If you decided on lacing, make markings for eyelets on the shelves. Holes for them make a punch and make sure that they hold tight.
To make loops:
- cut a long strip from the fabric, depending on the density of the loops on the shelf of the corset;
- From the wrong side, sew it to the desired width;
- turn the strip by hooking a pin over the edge;
- cut it into strips, for example 7 cm long, take into account the shear of the tape or lace;
- Overcast the edges of the pieces so that the fabric does not crumble;
- make loops between the layers of corset tissue on both shelves, adhering to the same width;
- sew the loops and retract the cord or tape. You can also sew the tape from the main fabric. To do this, you need to sew a long strip of the desired width, twist, straighten the stitched upper edge and carefully sew the lower edge.
You can sew in a hidden zipper and hide behind a button closure.
It remains at will to decorate the corset with lace, rhinestones, beads, bows.
To sew a corset, you need to have a lot of experience. This is not such a simple thing.