How to sew an open back wedding dress

Feminine and elegant wedding dress with an open back - stylish and at the same time bold. Dressing him, the girl shows her figure and posture.

Dresses of this type are very popular. But sometimes there are problems in sewing: it is difficult to cope with landing on a figure, to connect lace with the main fabric. Difficulty is often added by the design of the back. Thus, before embarking on sewing, choose a style that suits your figure. The right choice will solve all issues with the design and sewing technology. How to sew a wedding dress?

Dresses with a neckline on the back are divided into 3 groups:

• Cutout on the back above the waistline. This type is suitable for girls with narrow hips and a protruding belly, as well as if there is no bend from the waist to the hip. A feature in sewing is cutting the upper part of the undercut when deepening the cut. During the fitting, extra centimeters are noticeable. You do not need to remove them either in the sides or in the center of the back, since landing at the level of the chest is disrupted. Thus, all the excess must be removed in the rear reliefs, that is, hidden in the recesses on the back.
• Cutout to the waistline. Suitable for girls without a protruding abdomen and with a good difference from waist to hip. It is necessary to take into account when constructing the pattern that the entire undercut is cut off, and the back bend is not taken into account. If the back does not close with lace, it is necessary to lay an inclined undercut. Its depth should be 1 cm towards the cutout. It is better to model the shape of the cutout on the layout. It is worth noting that the net plays an important role in the fit of the back. When using it, you can take into account the presence of a recess.Also, if the dress will be fastened with buttons, then when designing the middle cut, it is necessary to take into account the convexity of the shoulder blades and the degree of inflection of the back.
• Cut below the waistline. In this model, the requirements for the figure are very stringent: a beautiful shape of the back, well-groomed skin and a pronounced waist, as well as moderate bending of the figure, since it is rather difficult to achieve a fit of the notch to the back. If the back is too kinky, you can insert a mesh or lace. She will also hide defects on the skin. When making a pattern, one should take into account the recesses at the junction of the dress and lace at the level of the inflection of the figure.

When modeling a dress with an open back, you need to think in advance what will ensure the neckline tension to maintain shape. Alternatively, this could be:

• heavy skirt;
• corsage;
• corset in front of the dress;
• panties-body.

The base is also selected depending on the type of figure:

1. Girls with protruding breasts can sew dresses based on the body, corsage and corset dresses.
2. For a figure with a protruding belly and a stomach located at chest level - corsage and corset dresses with a depth of cut from the waistline of 4-6 cm. A dress based on the body is not recommended, except in some cases.
3. For figures with a pronounced belly - only corsage dresses, since this type of figure requires reformation. The depth of cut from the waistline should be 6-8 cm.

The presence of straps in dresses with an open back is mandatory. The appearance and width can be varied. Instead of straps can be lace.

A transparent mesh that completely or partially closes the back will look very impressive. But to sew such a wedding dress will not be very simple.

The choice of straps should be approached carefully so as not to spoil the appearance of the dress and not emphasize the flaws of the figure. Therefore:

• For figures with protruding shoulder blades, thin straps are selected. Lace or mesh can be inserted below the level of the shoulder blades so as not to emphasize the stoop.
• For figures where the shoulder blades and buttocks are on the same line, thin or medium-wide shoulder straps are used. The back can be decorated with lace partially or completely.
• For figures with protruding buttocks, you can use any straps, as well as lace, which partially or completely covers the back.
• For a figure with protruding breasts and buttocks in models with a cut below the waist below, it is better to use lace. It will contribute to a better fit, you can also choose free styles of skirts.

The dress with one shoulder strap - an asymmetry that attracts attention, looks original.

Before modeling a lace openwork dress with a deep neckline on the back and with or without sleeves, take all necessary measurements:

• chest girth
• girth under the chest
• product length
• back height
• Prepare the basic pattern for the dress.

Transfer the following lines to the finished main pattern:

• reduce the shoulder by 2 cm from the armhole. Measure its length - 4 cm;
• draw a cutout of the back, as on the pattern. At your discretion, the shape of the cutout may be deeper or vice versa less;
• make the desired skirt length.

Sequence of actions for patterning:

1. Transfer the tuck on the chest to the side.
2. Stretch your shoulder, just like on the back (length - 4 cm).
3. 2 cm raise the neckline.
4. Draw a boat neckline like a pattern.
5. Model a narrow single-seam sleeve 3/4.

You can also model the skirt model according to your preferences. For example, you can add a small train to the straight bottom of the dress.

It will be obtained by adding a wedge. A train is cut out, like 1/4 of a circle. Making out the bottom, the line can bend more, then along the bend line the train will be longer (dashed line in the drawing).

The dress can be halfway, then parallel and conical breeding is used to form assemblies.

A train will turn out if you build a wedge along the middle section of the skirt, while the front of the skirt is made shorter than the back. The loop is already taken into account.

See how to sew a wedding dress with an open back and a train in the next video.

• take the necessary measurements: sleeve length, semicircle of the chest and sleeve length to the elbow;
• draw a rectangle with points A, B, C and D. Where the sides of AB and CD are 38 cm wide. This will be the width of the sleeve. It is calculated by the formula: (48: 3 + 3) x 2 = 38. That is, 48: 3 - 1/3 of the semicircle of the chest (when constructing, substitute your parameters), to which 3 cm is added and multiplied by 2 cm.
• measure the length of the sleeve +2 cm on the AC and BD segments. For example, if the length is 58 cm, add 2 cm. Get 60 cm.
• the height of the okata is measured as follows: from T.A put 15 cm to the bottom and put t. P (t. P1 on the segment CD). Measured as follows: 20: 4 × 3 = 15, where 20 is the depth of the armhole of the base of the dress;
• 33 cm from t. And put the point A - the length of the sleeve to the elbow. Draw a straight line and at the intersection with the Sun put t. L1;
• for okat sleeves, divide the AB side into 4 parts and put the dots, as in the pattern;
• t. O, connect with t. P and P1, on the line of intersection put t. O3 and O4. Divide the dashed lines in half. In segment PO3, back down 0.5 cm, in O3O, up 2 cm. Similarly, do segments OO4 and O4P. Draw the line of okat on new points.

How to sew a wedding dress with your own hands:

1. From lace, cover 1 part of the back and front, 2 parts of the sleeves.
2. From the lining material - all the details of the front and back.
3. Sew a lining with lace on the front and back.
4. Make shoulder seams and stitch sleeves.
5. Stitch side seams.