Popular dress patterns and description of the modeling process

When looking at glossy magazines, sometimes there is a feeling of regret that a dress you like very much from a fashion show or from the red carpet, if you can try on in a boutique, you can only wear it to a party in your dreams. Unfortunately, this dress will remain an impossible dream, unless you arm yourself with a base pattern and model exactly the same model.

It is about the principles of modeling that will be discussed later.

The design process begins with a technical drawing and modification of the top or bottom of the main pattern:

• the selected model is divided into correctly constructed parts according to the most accurately taken measurements;
• body features are taken into account;
• increases are made on the seams or on a loose fit, depending on the chosen style and material.

Modeling ends with cutting and sewing.

The first step on the way to modifying the dress is to transfer the upper breast tuck. There are many ways to transfer, for example, to the cut of an armhole, to the waist or neck, in the middle of the front or to the drapery.

To do this, you need to outline its new position, so that it is aimed at the highest point of the chest. Further along the lines, the pattern is cut and the old undercut is closed, opening a new one.

The following are common chest tuck transfer options.

To translate the tuck in the shoulder seam into two soft folds, draw two lines (in the example, dotted lines) on the pattern at a distance of 2 cm.Connect the top of the tuck with the drawn lines. Close the tuck by cutting the pattern along the lines.

Here is an example of a dress with a neckline on the shoulders, where the undercut is transferred to the neck. Then the sleeve is finished and the skirt is lengthened.

Slightly more difficult with the transfer of tucks in drapery. It is done like this:

1. On a wallpaper or a sheet of paper with a pencil, circle the outline of the detailed pattern of the front bodice.
2. From the tops of the two lower and upper right tucks, draw lines to the left shoulder. Close the tucks, leaving only the left breastplate open.
3. Having spread the tucks, circle the new outline of the bodice, smoothly connecting the upper points of the left shoulder.

You can translate both tucks at once:

1. On shaped front bodice, apply shaped bold lines and drapery lines.
2. On the left half of the top of the tucks, move to the upper end of the contour line (i.e. F) and circle their new position.
3. On the right half, raise the top of the second waist tuck to the top of the chest.
4. First cut the pattern along the contour, then cut it along the drawn lines.

Shaded places on the pattern are fabric allowances for cutting, which are needed to create draperies.

A beautiful drapery on the neckline can be created in different ways, but they begin with the closure of the tuck.

• Measure the length of the shoulder seam, then draw the contour lines. Cut them, leaving 1 cm uncut along the shoulder line.
• Expand the resulting details, draw a horizontal line from the highest point of the shoulder line.
• Fill in a one-piece lapel.

A few more examples of modeling the collar "swing".

A short dress with a voluminous skirt and an asymmetric neckline on the bodice will allow you to be the queen at any occasion.

1. On the bodice in front of the left breast tuck, transfer to the side seam, and the right one to the waist line.
2. Move the left tuck at the waist 2 cm to the center.
3. To 7 cm, reduce the length of the shoulder, and make the neckline taller.
4. Make the armholes 2 cm deeper.
5. Draw a cutout in the form of a petal and cut the pattern along the simulated lines.
6. On the back, as in the front, shorten the shoulder and deepen the armhole.
7. Draw a triangular neckline, laying 23 cm in the midline.

For the skirt, draw a rectangle of the desired length, which in width will equal two girths of the hips. If the width of the fabric is not enough, cut the skirt out of two pieces.

The petticoat consists of two parts:

• 1st — top, 25 cm long and one and a half girth;
• 2nd - bottom, equal in width to two thighs.

The entire length of the petticoat is 2 cm shorter than the skirt.

A free-cut dress is one that is created in haste, since a newcomer to sewing can do it. It does not require a zipper, just a non-stitched area for sewing on a button is left on the back.

• Mark the back with a dotted line and move it 12-14 cm apart. It is from the angle of inclination that the fluffiness of the folds will depend.
• Round the bottom line, and make the armhole and neckline deeper.
• On the front of the dress, transfer the chest tuck to the waist. The front should be slightly more flared, so they are added 4 cm to the lower line of the back and front.
• The lateral lines of the two parts are straight segments.

If you want a dress short in front and long in back, on the back pattern created above, measure the desired length in the middle of the fold and draw rounded lines to the side seams.

Modeling a short dress - the sun is similar to a real flower, because it allows you to create a volume with many cracks.

Having drawn a rectangle, construct a pattern of the front and back with a shoulder length of about 5 cm. Parts with a bend are cut out.

An unusual fitted dress from the catwalk, decorated with a cord and with two pockets, will appeal to many.

When modeling this dress, you need to take into account some nuances:

1. The relief from the neck smoothly goes back through the side seam.
2. A zipper is inserted in the side sections.
3. The sleeve is made two-sutured, one of them will hide the cord.
4. Flap sleeves stitched. If the fabric is very dense, the lapel of the sleeve on the inside can be made of lining fabric.
5. Overhead pockets.
6. If the fabric rolls in, immediately treat the sections, for example with an overlock.
7. The cord is sewn with hands, hidden stitches, on both sides.

A suitable fabric is dense wool with a small amount of elastane. Also need a lining.

A summer cotton dress on wide straps with a flying skirt and romantic frill tops on the bodice will give coolness in the hottest time.

• Model the parts of the front bodice and the detail of the back.
• Straps separately, 6 cm wide with allowances and lengthen, so that you can sew to the back.

Model the front of the skirt, the back will be the same, only the straight line at the top.

It also needs frills that are stitched along the neckline of the sundress. Their length is equal to two lengths of the upper cut, and the finished width is 3 cm.

1. Through the protruding point along the chest line, draw a relief, then close the chest undercut.
2. Also remove the waist tuck and extend the shoulder line, forming a one-piece sleeve.
3. It remains to form a neckline.

We are accustomed to wearing a wraparound dress with a triangular neckline, but you can move away from the standards and draw asymmetrical.

A chiffon dress with a straight armhole is easily modeled.