How to shape nails?

Every girl dreams of a perfect manicure. But sometimes the result is disappointing. And the color of the varnish is suitable, and the manicure is impeccably done, but something does not please the overall picture. The reason for this may be the incorrectly selected shape of the nails. The final result largely depends on it. Let's figure out how to find your form, as well as how to make it yourself.

Previously, masters of manicure identified only four main forms. These were: a square, a triangle, an oval and a circle. Today, the choice is much wider. Yes, some of them are very similar to each other, but still have the right to an independent name and existence. The choice of form depends on many factors. If in doubt, what form is perfect for you, look at the base of the nail. What shape does the cuticle have? It can be oval, square, or even triangular. If you repeat its shape on the free edge, then the nails will look very organic.

You are very lucky if the cuticle is oval. There are practically no restrictions on the choice. But do not forget about other features (fullness and length of the fingers). If the base is in the form of a square, then your ideal shape will be a square and a slightly rounded shape (soft square). Well, for owners of a triangular cuticle line, one should choose pointed forms (almonds, stylet). A good way to determine if your chosen form is right for you is to use a special form or tips.Ask the wizard to simply attach it to the nail bed. So you are clearly convinced of the correctness of their own choice.

In addition to the above criteria, an experienced master takes into account the following nuances:

• whether manicure is performed on natural nails, whether shellac is used to cover, or whether the nails will grow;
• the individual structural features of the hand and fingers are taken into account (whether it is naturally long and thin and puffy and short);
• customer request;
• correspondence of the chosen form to the latest fashion trends.

The round shape of the nails is suitable for owners of a short nail plate. If you try to repeat it on long nails, you may experience a feeling of rudeness and heaviness. For owners of thin long fingers and oblong marigolds, you should not choose the form of a stylet or another long sharp option. This will visually lengthen the fingers, and they will become like “spider legs”. The same long and pointed at the end. The shape of a soft or ordinary square will harmoniously look.

Sharp forms such as a stylet or blade will perfectly complement the image of ladies with thin fingers, but having an average length of the nail. In this case, visual lengthening will only benefit. Among other forms, you can also safely try on the peak and almonds (the length should be more than average). When choosing a specific form, consider the scope of your own employment. Since most professions in the modern world require working with a computer, it is worth taking care of the convenience of operating a manicure.

The actual shape of the almond looks perfect on a medium-sized nail plate. In this case, the value of the free edge should be greater than the average. On short nails, the shape narrowed and pointed towards the end will look ridiculous.

As for the unusual beveled shape (when the free edge has a pronounced slope in one direction), it can be embodied on extended nails. This option is quite vulnerable, so the nails should be very strong. The exoticism of this version of manicure also requires a certain courage from its owner. She is chosen by bright natures, as well as impressive and extravagant ladies. In addition to these basic rules and criteria, do not forget about the personal preferences of the client. The choice in this case will be determined by temperament, personal preferences and your own idea of ​​the beautiful.

For a good manicure you need a good tool. Real masters of their craft know about it and never save on it. Let's try to list the main items that you will need.

• Forceps. They are used to remove cuticles, as well as other growths on the skin. This tool should be sharpened well to accurately trim the keratinized layer, and not tear it off.
• Scissors for manicure. Many mistakenly use them to trim the free edge. But this is a rather gentle tool that will quickly deteriorate (become dull) when working with rough materials (fingernail). They are needed to remove the cuticle along the growth line.

• Nail file. Ideally, you should have 3 files with varying degrees of stiffness. The coarsest is used for extended nails. Softer for natural. They not only give the final shape, but also align the nail plate. The choice of production material depends on individual characteristics and preferences. The files may be ceramic, glass or metal.
• Wooden stick. It is needed not only to remove dirt from under the nails, but also for the cuticle. It plays a particularly important role if you perform unedged manicure.Then, with its help, the cuticle not only sets the shape, but also moves it to the desired distance.
• Brush or large brush. With its help, you can easily remove dust from hands and nails, resulting from sawdust. Professionals have a special fan that sucks even the smallest particles, but at home they will have to be content with an ordinary cloth to wipe the dust.

• Cuticle cream. More and more masters refuse to steam their hands in the bath before starting a manicure. To make the cuticle soft and supple, they prefer to apply a special cream on it.
• Buff. It will be necessary at the final stage of nail preparation. With it, you can easily polish the nails and make them even and smooth.

First of all, you need to prepare the nails, and only then give them the desired shape. To do this, it is enough to make manicure the way that is familiar to you. If a special tool is available, then do a hardware manicure, otherwise you can do a classic trim manicure.

Prepare all the necessary tools that will be needed during the procedure. This will save you from the fuss and the search for the right file or tweezers in the process. Proceed to manicure only if you are sure that you have the necessary amount of time in stock. Hastily made manicure (or not finished at all) will look untidy and will quickly become worthless. Another important point that we have already mentioned is good lighting. If there is no special lamp available, then carry out the procedure in daylight near the window.

As we already explained above, the choice of the shape of the free edge largely depends on the natural design of the nail plate and the individual characteristics of the structure of the brush. But a skilled craftsman is able to transform even the most unprepossessing nails and give them the perfect shape. At the same time, natural imperfections can be compensated or hidden due to gel strengthening of the nail or design.

So, these are the basic postulates that the masters use when creating a manicure.

• A manicure will look organic if all the nails are the same shape. Today you can meet fashionistas who specifically focus on one or two nails, giving them a different shape of the free edge. But this is more an exception than a rule. This choice is supported by a specific design.
• Same length. Often you can meet a situation when a girl broke one of the already grown marigolds, but does not want to equal everything for him. In the end, she leaves it short and the rest long. This will not give beauty and sophistication, on the contrary, it will look ridiculous. There are only two ways: either cut the remaining nails to the minimum length, or build a broken nail. This is the only way your manicure will be aesthetic. Do not think that the length of the nails is the main indicator of beauty.

• Determine the length of the nail correctly. Each nail has its own size, so it is incorrect to focus only on the length of the free edge. After all, if you make the same length of the free edge for the middle finger and little finger, then in the end they will look different.Measure the length from the bottom of the cuticle to the tip of the nail (with the free edge inclusive).
• To correctly determine the shape and length, use one finger as a reference. This will be the one, the length of the nail bed, on which more than the rest. Only the little finger can be 3-4 mm smaller than the others (the thumb is either equal to or larger by 1 mm). Nameless, index and middle simply must be of equal length so that the manicure looks organically.
• Another rule is orientation to the final result. In your head there should be a clear picture of what shape the nails will eventually be. This will help to carry out the sawdust in the right direction.

• Take your time. This is important not only so that you do not miss important points and do not miss the flaws, but also for the nail itself. If the sawdust is carried out very intensively, then the nail plate can be damaged. As a result, it will begin to exfoliate.
• Provide yourself with good lighting. An ideal option would be a table lamp, which can be directed in the right direction and at the right angle. Such are used in beauty salons. It is important for the master to see every nail and its smallest details.

Masters of nail design shape the nails with a nail file. Its abrasiveness depends on whether manicure is done on natural or extended nails. As for the technique of execution, for each form there is its own technique. Moreover, even the same form can be cut by different masters according to their own scenario. We will analyze the main types of forms and the technology for their creation.

One of the most natural and concise forms. If you do everything right, then the shape of the free edge will repeat the outline of a finger. This form looks perfect on short nails. File all the nails to the same length at a right angle. You will get the correct square. It is from this form that it is easiest to create a circle with an ideal length and slope. Now, moving from the center to the sides, start cutting off sharp corners at the edges.

If the nails have different lengths, then first you need to level them. It can also be difficult if you had a pointed shape before. Sawed edges will not allow you to create the right square. Here you can advise either to choose the minimum length, or give preference to a soft square with rounded edges. Sawdust is made at right angles. The edges must have a clear parallel between themselves, that is, not even the slightest bias in one or the other direction is allowed. All this will be seen.

Oddly enough, but this form is also cut out of the square. Proceed as described above. The main task at this stage is to cut the correct square. Next, start cutting off the nail at a slight angle. At the end, a rather sharp tip forms. Its shape is adjusted at the last stage, rounding to the desired size. You can start creating almond shapes without resorting to an intermediate square shape, but it is much more complicated. After all, you will need to adjust both the length and the slope, and strictly adhere to the center line so that there is no bias in one of the sides.

Sharp nails, which are often called "feline", require a rather impressive length of the free edge. To create such an exquisite form on short nails does not make sense (and it is impossible).The basic rule for shaping the stylet with the nail will be the correct definition of the central highest point of the nail. When you file all the nails to the desired length, you can begin to create a pointed shape. To do this, you need to move from the middle to the edges. Take your time, otherwise you run the risk of cutting too much. As a result, you should get a shape with narrowed edges, going to a sharp tip. The smoother the transition from the smile line to the edge, the more organic the manicure will look.

There are no special secrets and difficulties. One has only to adhere to the unshakable rule of a short nail. That is, the length is determined by the size of the shortest of the nails. When the size of all the nails is corrected, you can proceed to sawing the form itself. To do this, move from the center to the edges, creating a smooth arc (or oval). There should not be a point at the highest point of the nail, but there should not be a long straight line either.

In addition to correcting the shape of the free edge, it is sometimes necessary to change the nail plate itself. The fact is that not everyone endowed nature with a beautiful bend and the correct structure. The most affordable way to change the nail plate and set the correct growth path is to build. It should be noted here that the procedure should be performed by a professional. Only he will be able to carry out his work qualitatively and provide the necessary correction.

With it, the desired bend is set. As a result, the marigolds have the correct shape. Its change takes time for the nail to get used to growing in a given direction. But no one forbids temporarily getting rid of extended nails, so that yours can rest a bit.

In addition, special devices from ingrown toenails and plate corrections are often used on the legs. These are staples and surgical steel. With its help, the edges are lifted and fixed. With prolonged wear, the shape and growth path is corrected. In many ways, it looks like braces that are mounted on the teeth.

Take the advice of professionals.

• Dry surface. The surface of the nail should be dry before starting the procedure. This rule is especially true if you use steaming. To create the correct shape, it is necessary that the nail dry out well, since its shape may slightly change under the influence of hot water.
• Do not cut too much. If the fingernail already has the desired length and shape, then do not additionally expose it to mechanical stress. Walk on the surface of the nail plate with a buff to polish it. The same procedure should be done with a free edge cut. This will prevent delamination and breakage in the future.

• Use of quality materials. If you do not have the opportunity to purchase everything you need, it is best to contact the salon. After all, using materials and tools of poor quality, you only risk harming yourself. In the future, correction of such errors will take much more time and money. Masters choose expensive high-quality materials, not only because of their practicality, but also safety.
• The frequency of the procedure. Do not forget to do manicure on time. If you prefer staining natural nails with varnish, then the procedure will have to be done quite often. When using shellac or building up, the operating time increases. But even in this case, you will have to update it every 3-4 weeks, since your nails will grow back.

See how to properly shape your nails in the next video.