National clothes of different nationalities often have a clear imprint not only of life, way of life, but also of climatic conditions. So, for example, the Yakut national costume was created specifically for the difficult climatic conditions of the North. Of course, it also contains a certain number of elements borrowed from other peoples, but this does not at all create a negative impression of the costume of the Yakuts.
History reference
Yakuts, as a national community, are by far the most concentrated in Yakutia and the Krasnoyarsk Territory. A small number of people of this nationality can be found in the Magadan, Sakhalin and Amur regions.
The earliest examples of the national clothes of the Yakuts are considered to be costumes that arose in the XIII century. Basically, this is outerwear with pronounced folk ornaments, decorations and elements. The national Yakut costume of that time was created from the fur of motley animals, rough cloth and silk, and leather.
Already in the Christian era (17-18 centuries), a traditional set of outerwear was made from the skin and fur of domestic animals, since the main activity of the Yakuts was horse and cattle breeding. Particularly popular were suede, leather and fur of short-haired pets. For additional warming in especially frosty periods, Yakut craftsmen used animal skins with fluffy, long-haired fur. This option looked more like a decorative decoration of a classic national costume: fur strips were sewn around the perimeter of outerwear, as cuffs on the sleeves, as well as wide warm collars.
Features of the cut
Each folk garment is often based on a straight silhouette with the same sleeves. The traditional costume of the Yakuts is no exception.
However, there are several variations in its “design”:
- onoholo, buuktaah. Yakut craftsmen, without too much embarrassment, laid the basis for this type of cut especially tailoring for Russian military and avid travelers. Of course, it was not without exclusively national impregnations. The name of such a cut is due to the presence of folds on the back - “ono” and the original sleeve model - “buuk” (puff-shaped). Outerwear (most often a coat), sewn according to this principle, were worn equally by both men and women. The main materials for the manufacture of Yakut national costumes of this cut were: leather and duba (Chinese paper fabric) - for men; fur and suede (depending on the season) - for women. Velvet stripes on the collar and cuffs served as decoration;
- kytylaah. Appeared in the everyday life of the Yakuts much later than the first type of cut and differs from it only in some details. For example, a double wide cloth strip, which was located along the edge of the side of the upper national clothing.
The main feature of the women's summer coat, made using a cut of kytylyah, is the presence of red threads in the ornament that adorns the perimeter of clothes and sleeves. In male models, built on the same principle, there are more strict and dull colors;
- tanalay. One of the oldest types of cut. Traditional winter Yakut clothing, which was made from rovduga (deer or elk suede) using fur of fur animals. The features of this cut are the presence of a fur shoulder pad, which was located at the junction of the sleeve and armhole. Cuts on the sides, jewelry made of shiny metal in the form of pendants at the waist. Some historians insist that this type of cut was characteristic of wedding dresses.
Basically, the women's national costume of the Yakuts was not very different from the men's. The main differences can be called color performance, the presence of additional decor, the use of various materials.
Women's Yakut costume
The main materials for the manufacture of traditional clothing for women in Yakutia:
- everyday - practical and durable chintz and satin;
- festive - expensive, beautiful and shiny silk and satin;
- outerwear - fur, suede with skillful addition of pieces of silk or fur national ornaments.
The national fur coat of an adult Yakutian woman is called sanyah, sewn from the skins of wild animals: sable, wolf, wolverine or fox. This is one of the most important items of the bride’s wedding dress. On the back, the skin was laid out in such a way that a fur in the form of spread wings was obtained.
In general, the classic Yakut woman’s wedding wardrobe consisted of the main elements:
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Annah is a special piece of cloth covering the face.
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Pectoral shirt made of coarse rovdug.
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Leather trousers, covering, mainly, the pelvic part of the bride.
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Legs - special leggings made from the skin of a wild animal, which resembled boots, but ended in the ankle area, did not have a foot.
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Fur Doha is a warm fluffy fur coat.
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The traditional headdress, which in its cut and appearance resembled a military helmet.
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A large number of jewelry. This element in the Yakuts was considered one of the most important in women's clothing. At the same time, everything was decorated: clothes, shoes, head, chest, hands. The Yakut beadwork is especially popular to this day. Its foundations are passed from mother to daughter.
The costume of the Yakutianochka was exactly the same as that of an adult woman. The girl was characterized by the use of the edge around the perimeter of the cap.
National Yakut costume for men
Of course, clothes for men differed from women in particular modesty. The main feature was the presence of fur trim on the sleeves and collar.The height of the pile for such a finish could reach the maximum performance. The headdress also necessarily resembles a helmet in shape, made of natural fur and covered ears, cheekbones and a little chin area from frost. At the end of such a Yakut cap, a full moon or sun usually flaunted, which marked the continuation of the genus.
From childhood, Yakut boys wore national clothes that completely repeated, in their cut and finish, the clothes of adult men.
Costumes of indigenous Yakuts today
In the modern world, a wider range of fabrics, textures and jewelry is used to make national clothes. Today they are a national treasure and an almost special subject of pride and national art, worthy of museums and exhibitions. These are always expensive high-quality fabrics and furs sewn and finished in the best Yakut traditions. Of course, modern designers have moved far enough away from the ancient heritage, constantly making their own adjustments, their vision and their creativity.
Today, the Yakuts wear national clothes almost exclusively on holidays. But beads and furs continue to be used to this day.