Ukrainian national costume

Any folk costume embodies the identity of the nation, her aesthetic ideal, aspirations and values. This phenomenon has developed over the centuries, and it is difficult to overestimate its historical and artistic significance. In this regard, the Ukrainian national costume is a multifaceted phenomenon. It embodies a Slavic soul, an eastern love of bright colors and at the same time a western touch of sophisticated elegance.

Ukrainian national costume dates back to ancient timeswhen the Slavic tribes from the Dnieper region (at that time not yet united in Kievan Rus) had such a garment as an embroidered shirt that was worn without any outer clothing. The formation of the costume continuously continued until the 19th century, while it was closely intertwined with other cultural traditions.

It was the culture of the ancient Slavs that became the cradle for the Ukrainian, as well as for the Russian, Belarusian style in clothes. No wonder these peoples have so much in common both in history and in national dress. Ukrainian costume has many faces, in each region of the country (Polesie, Dnieper, Carpathians, etc.) it has its own characteristic features. This is due, inter alia, to the fact that Ukraine borders with Moldova, Poland and reflected the features of neighboring peoples in clothing.

The national costume of Ukraine is distinguished by the following characteristic features:

• A simple style that combines beauty and practicality.
• Saturation with decor (hand embroidery, lace, braid).
• The clothes are made of natural fabrics.
• Bright contrasting color scale.
• The outfit is organically complemented by original shoes and accessories.
• Ornaments, patterns, color schemes carry a deep symbolic meaning.

Separately, it is worth staying on a traditional embroidered shirt. Embroidery was not just a female needlework, but a manifestation of creative skill, peasant talent. This lesson brought joy to the woman’s difficult life, through the color palette she could convey her feelings and faith in the best. The embroidery is a very beautiful amulet. In ancient times, people believed that hand-embroidered symbols and drawings, possessing magical powers, can protect against evil forces. In a special way, Ukrainians wore embroidered shirts and blouses mainly on holidays and for fun festivities.

For men's clothing strict geometric ornaments were characteristic, which personified courage and courage. Female patterns were distinguished by intricacy, elegance, and complex interweaving of lines. The embroidery could depict flowers, a vine, leaves, symbolizing love, youth, tenderness, innocence.

As for the general color scheme of the Ukrainian costume, it was background white or other light colors, combined with red and other bright colors (azure, green, brick, smoky) of wreaths, ribbons, belts and other wardrobe items. With a variety of regional options, a single art line is clearly traced.

The basis of the man’s costume was a simple shirt made of coarse linen. Wide and short, in appearance it looked like a Russian braid, only the cutout was located in the middle. The turn-down collar or bosom neckline was decorated with hand embroidery.

The shirt was traditionally tucked into harem pants, which were fixed on the belt with a cord on a wide buckle. Cloth or canvas trousers were blue or red and were so wide that they looked like a bag. Such clothes were convenient for everyday work, military service and, of course, for the performance of the traditional male dance - hapaka.

Pants and a shirt girdled with a wide sash, needlewomen embroidered it with intricate patterns. (the belts were very long, fastened with hooks, it was indecent to walk with a loose belt). From above the men put on a sheepskin casing, which warmed well in the cold, without restricting movements.

Women's national clothes of Ukraine are more diverse and sophisticated than men's. The shirt of the Ukrainian, or koshulya, was longer than the men's one, and was certainly decorated with embroidery along the edge of the neck, below and on the cuffs of the sleeves. The lower part of the koshuli (pidtychka), unlike the upper, was sewn of coarse fabric. Dodilnya - an integral variant - was worn exclusively on holidays. Such a shirt was sewn from an expensive snow-white canvas. In general, the festive (dance or carnival) clothes of the Ukrainian woman looked extremely bright, original, and featured more luxurious embroidery.

Young girls traditionally wore shirts without any outerwear. They were belted with red ribbons or sashes with embroidery. Married women necessarily supplemented the outfit with a jupan (this is a sleeveless jacket), as well as waist-length outerwear. It could be a derga - a working thing, up to three meters wide, which gathered back in wide folds. Another option is a spare wheel, consisting of two parts, which were connected by ties. And finally, festive overalls - buttermilk - sewn from silk or brocade, later from wool with a checkered pattern. As a bottom, girls and women put on a long skirt of variegated colors - ponevu, on top of which there was always an apron embroidered with patterns.

As for the children's national costume in Ukraine, it looked like an adult, although it had a number of differences. Boys and girls also wore embroidered shirts that were sewn from rectangular canvases (in front, back and sleeves). Children's embroidered shirts featured a more modest ornament.

The girl, like women, also wore a ponev, only her length was up to the knee or slightly higher. An embroidered apron dressed on top. The boy was dressed up in an embroidered shirt, blue harem pants, belted with a wide silk sash. The embroidery on the shirt was more restrained than that of the girls. Children wore medium-heeled boots, usually red, on their feet.

If the headdress of the boys was optional, then for the girl it was a mandatory attribute. Little girls wore modest half-wreaths with ribbons, and girls on hand-off were lush wreaths similar to a crown. Married women always wore a hat - slippers, and, going to church or visiting, they covered their heads with a scarf on top

Elements of traditional Ukrainian style are very fashionable in modern clothes. This is expressed primarily in the decoration of clothes. Ethnic dresses made of light fabric with contrast embroidery are the most popular. For everyday options, this technique is satin stitch, a cross, for festive ones - ribbons or beads.

Let us describe in more detail some elements of Ukrainian folk clothes:

• Yupka - outerwear like a jacket.
• The corset is a female tank top, in different regions it had a special cut, color and ornament.
• Keptar - a similar option with fur.
• Leibik is a cloth sleeveless jacket, popular in the West and North of Ukraine.
• Andarak - a self-woven red skirt decorated with a wide strip of embroidery at the bottom.
• A reserve is a skirt for everyday wear, consisting of two pieces of fabric that are tied with braid on the side.
• Plakhta is a festive version of the skirt made of expensive material (silk, brocade, wool), embroidered with bright unique patterns. Such a thing expressed the individuality of a woman.

Ukrainian costume is made of natural fabrics - linen and cotton, cambric and wool. Silk and cotton were brought from eastern countries, but at the same time, their own production of these fabrics was developing. In the urban environment there were such specializations of artisans as mulberries, cloth-makers and canvas workers. Other fabrics that were also used in sewing folk costumes were imported: taffeta and satin, calico and cotton and others.

Today, the national costume of Ukraine (male, female or children's) can be bought or rented in specialized stores or agencies. This outfit will highlight you at any event, whether it be a wedding performance or a carnival party. Children's kit - an original solution for a matinee in kindergarten or a school holiday. Your child is guaranteed to be in the limelight.

Exquisite evening dress in the Ukrainian style, which will adorn any festive event. A straight, slightly fitted silhouette is complemented by luxurious wide sleeves, assembled on the wrist. Beautiful floral embroidery emphasizes a triangular neckline and chest. Embroidered golden lines organically combine with a similar color with open-toe shoes. The dress, made of flowing silky fabric, has a classic length, slightly opening the knees. The burgundy clutch with a decorative element of Ukrainian style also completes the image.

Look at the video Vogue UA images of Ukrainian women of the late XIX - early XX century.