The national Udmurt costume is a symbol of hard work and accuracy. To fill their chest with a dowry, girls from 6-7 years old learned to spin, and the loom was the main assistant in this matter. And so, by the age of 16-17 they became craftsmen and craftsmen of all trades, they could make both a casual dress and a wedding dress. And for anyone who wanted to get married, gifts for the future husband and his relatives should also be in store. In general, in the chest of each self-respecting girl, there were more than 40 different outfits.
History and features
The costume of the Udmurts is a charm and protection from evil spirits. As the Udmurts are divided into northern and southern, so their costumes differ in color, elements and materials.
The first clothes for the child were the shirt of the mother for the daughter, and the father for the son. Up to three years, children wears the clothes of elders. This was not so much a saving as ensuring the comfort of a child, because worn and washed clothes became soft and new coarse fiber did not rub delicate skin.
It used to be a simple shirt. Northern Udmurts used flax to make it, and southern Udmurts used hemp. Sheepskin, canvas and cloth were also used and made at home. To the cold, woolen threads were used. Of these, they were woven with shortdare, worn over a shirt.
Over time, both silk and satin began to be used. This fabric was used for festive dresses.
In the post-war period, with the advent of factory weaving, the national costume began to fade into the background. Handwork ceased to be valued and money entered the circulation.
An interesting feature of the costumes is that when the craftswoman finished the work, she made her mark from a bunch of threads (chuk).It was a kind of brand, brand. Copying such a suit was not allowed.
Today homespun cloths are again in demand and valuable, history is being restored. Now, each Udmurt woman of fashion has her own modernized version of the Udmurt national costume with an inherent color scheme and decor.
Colors and decor
The suit of the northern Udmurts contains three colors: white, black and red.
Southern Udmurts were distinguished by bright, multi-colored costumes. This included white, and red, and green, and brown colors.
Clothes and hats were decorated with beads, beads, coins, ribbons, embroidery with fragments of a talisman and national pattern.
Embroidery on the shirts of men showed the nature of their activity and also had the role of a talisman.
Men's suit
Men dressed simply. The traditional costume consisted of a shirt-shirt, striped pants and a belt. The shirt was white with a finish, then a small checkered homespun fabric appeared. The trousers (eds) of the Udmurts were close in their cut to the factory ones. The winter version of the trousers was made of homespun wool.
The festive version of the costume is a white shirt, with a red trim in the form of stripes on the sleeves, and on the bottom of the shirt. Pants in plain black or blue. The wide belt is simply red or iridescent woven.
In winter, a shirt fitted with a shortdarem was worn over a shirt. In the cold they wore sukman - a caftan, or dukes. On top of all this, sheepskin coats were worn, belted with woven belts and belts. For long roads there was also a long sheepskin coat with a large collar.
The headdress was a cap made of cloth or a hat made of felted sheepskin or wool (izy). Shoes were woven from bast - bast shoes, later they were replaced by boots, and in winter they saved boots.
Women costume
Women's clothing differed in several ways:
- place of residence (northern, southern);
- owner age;
- marital status.
Northern Udmurts adopted the clothing of Perm peoples. The basis of the costume of the northern Udmurt was a dere - a long tunic-like shirt. On top of her was a kabachi dress - a rectangular bib with national embroidery, a shortderer - a dressing gown, and akkyshet - an apron without a top, attached to the belt, and a woven belt or belt with embroidery.
Kabachi was an element of clothing for married women, replaced by applique musarez - bibs from pieces of fabric with embroidery, decorated with buttons and coins.
In winter, he warmed Kilimo shortdarem - a caftan over a shirt and a sheepskin coat of red or black.
The headdress combined several elements: a hat, a coverlet, a headband. The basis was takya - a hat decorated with coins. For girls, there was a low kotres takya, but for girls older, it was already higher - kuzyales takya. They also wore bandages, decorated with ribbons and embroidery, and married women wore yyr kotyr or weighed heavily - embroidered shawls.
The southern representatives of the Republic of Udmurtia stood out with colorful fabrics. Their clothing is close to the Tatars and Bashkirs.
The basis of the costume is shortdarem - a trapezoid dress with a narrowed sleeve. Its edge was decorated with ribbons and frills. A kyrak, a bib in the shape of a crescent with coins, flaunted on his chest. An aishet, an apron with closed breasts, was put on top. Saestem - sleeveless caftan and zybyn - caftan was warmed cool, and in winter they wore a graze - a sheepskin coat.
If everyday clothes were bright and colorful, then the wedding outfit had colors mostly white.
The headgear included hats, bandages, towels, aishons - hats with a high forehead, scarves. Southerners wore sophisticated hats. A scarf was put on over the headband decorated with beads and ribbons. At the wedding, the bride was dressed in an aishon, and on top - a skirt - a wide embroidered canvas decorated with fringe. The girl wore this set until she became a mother, and married women also wore an embroidered towel fixed on top with a scarf.
It was believed that how many children in the family depended on the number of cells in the Udmurt suit, the more the better.
They wore chugles - stockings of white or blue cloth. Binhalton - white footcloths up to the knee were wound on top. For men, they were wider, later knitted long socks with bright ornaments appeared. The bast shoes were also considered traditional shoes for women, for the holidays they were decorated with feathers and beads, and later festive shoes replaced them. In winter they wore boots.
Jewelry
Women's jewelry clearly distinguished their mistresses. Bright bibs with coins served as a talisman for the hostess.
Headbands were decorated with bright ribbons, coins and beads.
The main material for jewelry was silver - bracelets, earrings, chains, rings. But the beads were not honored with such attention. But among the Udmurts, such jewelry as yyrpin - white shells were popular, played the role of amulets. Such jewelry was passed from senior to younger, being a family heirloom.
Married girls hid their hair under shawls and embroidered towels, but the girls adorned their mowers - braid, ribbons, narrow stripes with coins.
Southern Udmurts decorated themselves with a butmar - a bandage over one shoulder with sewn coins. But the northern ones added red beads to it.
Men of jewelry wore only rings, but not simple ones, but with a family seal.
The Udmurt national costume with complex elements and ornaments is being restored and remodeled today. The modernized versions turn into simple dresses, skirts and shirts, but the ornament and chest decorations are unchanged. At the moment, the Udmurt costume is experiencing a new rise, and is gaining more and more popularity.
