National costumes of India are very diverse and vary depending on nationality, geography, climate and cultural traditions. The materials used for making clothes have a different weaving structure, fiber thickness, color and characteristic ornament. Moreover, patterns on the fabric are very often done using embroidery.
A bit of history
During the excavations, numerous bone needles and spinning wheels were found about the age of about five thousand years BC. Recent studies show that perhaps the Indians mastered the process of making and processing silk long before Chinese civilization, which is traditionally considered the discoverer of silk fabrics.
Various weaving techniques have been used in ancient India, many of which have survived to this day. Silk and cotton were woven into various designs and motifs; each region develops its own special style and technique. Under the influence of the culture of Ancient Persia, Indian craftsmen began to embroider fabrics with gold and silver threads.
Dyeing clothes in ancient India was practiced as a form of art. Five primary colors were identified, and complex colors were classified by their many shades. Masters of dyeing distinguished 5 shades of white. The method of mordant dyeing was common in India, starting from the second millennium BC.
To make their costumes, the Indians used another material - linen. Flax was ideally suited for its qualities and properties to the hot humid climate of India.
In the north of the country, Kashmir shawl is often used. It is made from fine goat hair. She perfectly warms on cool evenings.
The Indians are very fond of brocade. Of this gold-embroidered fabric, caftans are often sewn.
Women's national costume
In India, the options for women's costumes are extremely multifaceted, and are inextricably linked with living conditions, traditions of each region separately. She is always incredibly beautiful, sophisticated and replete with a variety of ornaments, embroideries and decorations.
The manufacture of these outfits requires special skill, so Indian tailors enjoy great respect from the population.
Sari
The world-famous fame was the traditional outfit - sari. A sari is a strip of open fabric, from four to nine meters in length, which can be thrown over the body in a variety of variations. The most common style of wearing a sari is when the cloth is wrapped around the waist with one end and the other end is thrown over the shoulder, exposing the abdomen. Silk sarees are considered the most elegant.
For special occasions or weddings, sarees are custom made. The master uses exclusive colors and patterns to create a unique image. An interesting fact is that after completing the order, all the sketches are burned. Therefore, two identical holiday sarees do not exist.
Sari has a different name in different parts of the country. In southern India, a snow-white sari decorated with a border of gold, which is used only for special occasions, is called kavanis. Munda is called the everyday light-colored sari. In Tamil Nadu, it bears the name Padawai.
Sarees are usually worn with a short blouse with short sleeves and a deep neckline on the chest, opening the belly - choli.
Mundum Neryathum
The oldest variety of sari. Worn without choli. Since it completely covers the hips, chest and stomach of a woman, leaving her shoulders naked.
Lehenga choli
This is also a variant of the female traditional costume. It is a skirt (lenga) of various lengths, highly flared and similar to an umbrella and choli. The length of lenga depends on the age and status of the woman.
Representatives of the higher castes can afford a skirt of maximum length. The festive lekhenga-choli is sewn of expensive fabrics embroidered with beads and gold, and can be of many different colors. Although until recently, only red clothes were considered solemn.
For young girls, the traditional costume consists of lenga, choli and stole, which are thrown over themselves like a sari. Upon reaching adulthood, they already prefer to wear a classic sari.
Salvar kamiz
Or salvar-kamiz - another type of national women's outfit, most common in the northwestern parts of the country (Punjab region). It is very popular among the female population, especially young girls. It consists of loose trousers (salwar) narrow at the very bottom at the ankles, and tunics (kamiz), flared down and having cuts on the sides. Shalvars drape beautifully into many folds.
Very often, along with salvar-kamiz, women put on a veil covering their heads. It is called dupatta. In ancient times, only Indians of the higher castes could afford to wear Dupatta. Now it is available to everyone and is an integral part of the holiday costume. Dupattu is sewn of chiffon, brocade, silk, cotton - it depends on the style of the salvar-fireplace.
Salvar-kamiz is the most popular among the stars of Bollywood.
Pattu Pavawai
This dress is for a little Indian girl. A traditional children's costume is made of silk. This is a tunic that falls almost to the toes. The most popular pavada is among the population of South India. During important ceremonies, children dress up in this costume.
Churidar-kurt
It is one of the types of shalvar-kamiz. In this case, the pants (churidar) have a conical shape and very tightly fit the leg immediately under the knee. These trousers go well with an elongated tunic (jacket). Unlike kamiz, the kurta is free-cut, shorter with a rounded hem.
Anarkali
Luxurious light flared dress.Anarkali always has a high waist and a sufficient length so that it can be worn separately, without combining with pants. This is what attracted European women. Who love to use outfits in the Indian style recently. Anarkali perfectly hides the flaws of any figure.
Mekhela chador
An outfit characteristic of Assamese residents.
This sophisticated suit consists of three parts:
- The lower part is called mekhela. This is a fairly wide section of fabric, which is folded, forming many folds on the right side, and envelops them with a belt. Despite the presence of ribbons on the fabric, they are not tied.
- The second part of the costume is the chador. This is a fabric that has triangular folds, very long. She covers the body of a woman from above.
- And the last part is riha. It is put on last over a chador.
This costume is not suitable for everyday wear, it is used in special situations, at important celebrations.
Men's national costume
Men's national clothes, like women's ones, are unique and distinctive, but at the same time they are not without convenience and elegance. No celebration or celebration is possible without wearing a traditional costume.
- Dhoti is a long, up to 6 meters cotton fabric of a light, most often white hue. This fabric is wrapped around the hips, so that the ends are passed between the legs and tied with a knot on the belt. Such a design is attached to the belt, the finish of which indicates the status of the owner. Murals and ornaments on the belt are an integral part of a wealthy Indian.
The length of dhoti, as well as lenga in women, varies depending on the social status of the man. Ordinary residents of the countryside wear shortened dhoti, as it is more convenient and does not interfere with work. Due to the influence of Western culture, Dhoti is increasingly replaced by ordinary European clothing. But it is still an integral part of official events.
Dhotis are worn with a regular shirt or with a jacket - an elongated shirt of a straight cut reaching the knees.
- Lungs - a long canvas, which is sometimes in the form of a skirt. They wrap the legs and hips of a man. Lungs are very popular in the south of the country, because in high heat and humidity ordinary pants are difficult to wear. A lunga allows you to hide from the heat without obstructing ventilation.
- Shervani is an elongated jacket or frock coat, the length of which reaches the knees. A prerequisite for wearing is fastening with all buttons. It looks good both with wide pants and shalvars, and with narrow churidars. Ideal for tall men. Local Rajas do not skimp, acquiring chervans, embroider them with gold, precious stones, satin. After all, nothing adds grace and character like a luxurious Shervan.
- The most famous headdress in the Indian national costume was and remains a turban. How many provinces in India, so many options for a turban can be found while traveling around the country. Now the original purpose of the turban to save the head from overheating on a hot noon is already forgotten. But the damp cloth, tightly wound around the head, cooled almost all day, giving freshness.
Now the turban is an indicator of the status of the owner, his religiosity. There are different types of this headgear. The most famous model is Mysore Peta, without whom the costume of the Indian Raja could not do.
An additional element of the men's suit of the representative of the higher caste was the cord, which the Indians considered sacred. It was necessary to wear it on top of the clothes, encircling itself through the chest and back.
Indian dance costumes
Indian dance, like the Indian costume, is unique and unique. It has a lot of styles and directions, therefore, there are also a great many dance costumes. Classical Indian dances, kathak and pop dances usually dance in saris. For the Bharatanatyam style, the famous dancer Rukmini Devi Arundale modified the sari, giving it the image of a wide “pajamas”.An obligatory element of this costume was the gold border framing the edges of the elements of the dress.
The classical dance of Mohiniattam is distinguished by its melody, grace and beauty, which is why the costumes of dancers are always performed in white with gold trim. A gold apron, worn over a snow-white skirt, gives the dance a charm. This dance was created as the dance of the priestesses of the temple, therefore the costumes reflect this idea.
If the dance is not classical, but stylized, then both Indian and contemporary music can be used. Therefore, such a dance allows the use of salwar-kamiz, lehenga-choli and other combinations of traditional clothing.
Bollywood dance style is a very popular phenomenon in modern India. The dance attracts modern young people and girls with its energy and mass. Therefore, costumes for the Bollywood style always have the same cut, length and style, but must be different in color. And only the soloist is allowed to stand out from the crowd.
Children's costumes for dancing are usually not much different from adults, except for the length and number of decorations. As a rule, girls wear shortened skirts, and the number of bracelets is minimized for the convenience of little dancers.
The long colonization of India by Great Britain did not go unnoticed and was reflected in all spheres of the life of Indians. Western culture left an indelible mark on the image of the modern Indian. Increasingly, you can find European jeans or T-shirts on the streets of the city. Children prefer modern clothes. Nevertheless, Indians highly value their culture and express their identity in every possible way, appearing at ceremonial receptions, weddings and other significant events in traditional men's and women's national costumes.
And vice versa, trying to diversify their wardrobe and bring in elements of oriental flavor, European women constantly use elements in the Indian style in their images.