Tailoring jeans

How to hem jeans while maintaining a factory seam?

How to hem jeans while maintaining a factory seam?
Content
  1. How to hem with a sewing machine?
  2. Manual Hemming
  3. Tips

Choosing new jeans, many girls are faced with the problem of the absence in the dimensional grid of a model suitable for them in height. The fact is that most manufacturers of fashionable clothes produce jeans designed for growth not lower than average.

Young women who did not manage to grow above 160 cm have to either hem jeans, or tuck, or (if other parameters allow) to buy jeans in the department of teenage clothing.

The latter option is not suitable for everyone, and tucked up jeans do not always look aesthetically pleasing, therefore, jeans binder can be considered the best solution. However, to make it beautiful and neat, some skill is required. In today's article, we want to share with you the secrets of how you can shorten jeans while maintaining a factory seam.

How to hem with a sewing machine?

If you have a sewing machine at home, the task of hemming jeans is greatly simplified. At the same time, the model of the machine is absolutely not important: an old mechanical unit and a modern electronic device will do.

In addition to a sewing machine and jeans, you will need:

  • threads as close as possible in tone to the color of jeans;
  • set of sewing pins;
  • tape measure;
  • remnant or wax crayon;
  • cutting scissors;
  • if the sewing machine is a new sample, you will need a special needle to work on denim.

The first thing to do is try on jeans and make the necessary measurements. It is very inconvenient to do this on your own, so it is better to ask someone for help.

You need to try on jeans in the shoes with which you will wear them. Ask your assistant to bend the pants so that they do not reach the floor a centimeter and a half, and pin the edge with pins. Look carefully at yourself in the mirror: the length of the leg should be the same.

Further it is already possible to act alone. Remove jeans carefully so that the pins do not come loose. Determine how many centimeters you need to shorten your jeans. Divide this number by two and remember the result.

Turn the jeans on the front side and tuck the trouser legs as many centimeters as it turned out in the previous step. Factory bending is not necessary. Check that the height of the hem is the same across the entire width of the leg. Lock the edge with pins, placing them perpendicular to the stroke of the foot of the sewing machine.

Stitch along the edge of the fabric hem. Then carry out a test fitting of jeans.

After making sure that the length is correct, repeat the procedure for the second leg. After this, excess tissue should be trimmed, leaving 1.5 cm at the edge.

Now you need to carefully combine the factory side seams with the native hem at the bottom, because after cutting the jeans, the lines could shift to the side. This seemingly insignificant nuance can ruin the whole impression of your hard work.

Next, you need to process the trimmed edge with an overlock. If you do not have such a device at home, this service will be provided to you in any sewing workshop or atelier. The seam can be made with threads of absolutely any color, as in the end it will be hidden from prying eyes.

Turn out the trouser leg and fasten the overlocked seam with one more line on the sewing machine. If this is not done, it will bend down and spoil the appearance of the product. Then make a pair of stitches on the side seams at a height of about 1 cm.

Everything is ready! Wash jeans, steam and iron the hem. If you select the thread exactly to the tone of the trousers, then the seams made on the machine will be completely invisible.

Thick jeans

If you are going to hem the insulated denim jeans model, you need to act a little differently.

Since the material of the product is quite thick, the usual bending, even if it is done as accurately as possible, will be striking. Therefore, we need to make the thickness of all seams and allowances as small as possible.

  1. After you have sewn the factory hem to the trimmed leg, you need to dissolve the allowance at the side seams and smooth them well in different directions.
  2. In addition, the allowance on the factory hem should be shortened to 3-5 mm, the allowance on the trouser legs - manually overcast.
  3. Then you should tuck the "native" hem, sweep or pin the edge with pins and lay another line on the sewing machine.

Thin jeans

Thin denim jeans for summer will have their own hemming features. Such models are usually sewn from fabric with the addition of elastane, so it tends to stretch. T

thick hem on lightweight jeans will be very noticeable, so our task is to make the hem as thin and invisible as possible.

The following describes the sequence of steps from the same moment as in the previous section:

  1. The allowances needed for sewing on the factory hem will be hidden inside. To do this as carefully as possible, shorten the hem allowance to 3-5 mm.
  2. Spread the fabric over the allowances and smooth it in the direction of the factory bottom seam.
  3. Now tuck the bottom of the jeans along the starting lines of the fold and catch it on your hands.
  4. Once again, walk along the bottom of the legs with a hot iron, trying to smooth out all the elements of the hem.
  5. Make another seam on a sewing machine at a distance of about 1 mm from the factory.
  6. After that, the bottom of the jeans again needs to be steamed and ironed.

Manual Hemming

In the absence of a sewing machine, it will be more difficult to hem jeans, especially if you are not a very skilled needlewoman.

The main difficulty is to make an even and strong line. After all, denim is a fairly dense material that is difficult to process. Therefore, you need a needle and a thicker thread, as well as a thimble.

The first stage of work is the measurement and cropping of jeans. Here you need to do everything the same as we described in the previous section. After that, cut a fragment with a factory seam from the cut bottom of the leg - then we need only it.

Now turn the jeans inside out and begin to sew the “native” hem to the cropped edge of the product. Sewing is best done with the simplest linen seam (it is also called French). A new seam must be seamed with thread around the edge so that the fabric does not crumble.

Take the iron and steam off the bottom of the legs on both sides well. After this, the place of joining the edges of the trousers and the factory hem will become almost invisible.

Flared and narrowed trousers to hem in this way is much more difficult, because the width of the trousers and the trimmed factory seam will not match. In the first case, you will have to stretch the hem along the side seam and remove excess tissue, and in the second case, expand the bottom with inserts from the same material.

Details are in the video.

Tips

Tip for originals

If you do not need to shorten your jeans, and you only want to update the frayed bottom edge, you can use one interesting way. For this you will need a long zipper.

You can buy a new one, but you can tear away from unnecessary things.

  • Divide the zipper into two parts (we do not need the dog).
  • Trim the frayed hem and attach the edge of the fastener to the edge of the jeans and grind.
  • Then turn the trousers to the front side and make another seam a centimeter from the bottom edge. As a result, you get jeans with an unusual and practical decor.

Tip for the lazy

There is another way to shorten jeans, which is popularly called "bachelor". It is suitable for those who do not even have minimal needle and thread handling skills and who do not have strict requirements for the aesthetic side of things.

  1. Having determined how many centimeters you need to trim the jeans, the product must be tucked up and the bend ironed carefully.
  2. Then we straighten the trousers, tuck them a centimeter higher and again fold the iron.
  3. We cut off everything unnecessary, on the wrong side we lubricate the centimeter of the bending with instant glue.
  4. We wrap the edge inward, press it tightly across the entire width, wait a few minutes.

This is how elementary it is possible to shorten jeans without using sewing accessories.

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