All about the Genoese fortress in Sudak

Genoese fortress - a unique defensive complex, made by inventive Genoese in the romantic style of the Middle Ages. As a stronghold for the colonies of the northern Black Sea coast, the fortress covered the entrance to Sudak Bay. “Picturesque historical ruins” - this is how the famous writer-historian M.P. Pogodin defined this area. Nevertheless, today the definition of "ruins" will not be entirely fair.

Now Sudak fortress is a world famous museum. Of the unique buildings of the 10th – 15th centuries on its territory there were preserved and partially reconstructed: the mighty fortress walls, the Dozornaya (Maiden) and Portovaya towers, the Consular Castle, a number of famous religious buildings, surviving elements of residential buildings and coastal fortifications of the VI century.

The fortified city for a long and busy life at different times bore various names - Sudak, Sugdeya, Soldadiya, Surozh. History remembers when the Black Sea was called Sourozh, and where the epic Sourozh warriors fought fiercely and courageously. The city of Sudak was conquered by the Khazars and Alans, Polovtsy and Greeks, Russians and Tatars, Italians and Turks.

It was from Surozh that the famous Surozh wines were delivered throughout Europe. The uncle of the famous navigator Marco Polo built his trading post here. Many historical secrets keep in themselves the harsh coastal cliffs of the famous cape. The geography of Sudak is so advantageous and unique that in the XVIII century, when Crimea became the patrimony of Russia, it was here that they planned to move the capital of Tavria.

Genoese (Sudak) fortress - a defensive complex, built in the 7th century AD e.on a hill 157 m high, which is a hardened coral reef with a smooth slope on the north and abruptly steep on the south side. Unapproachable from the east and south, steep from the west and vulnerable only from the north, the mountain was an ideal place for the construction of a fortified area covering the bay.

Thus, the favorable location of the territory, competent design and creation of defensive structures made the fortified area practically impregnable:

• from the west - hard to reach;
• from the south and east protected by sheer rock formations sliding down the coast;
• from the northeast - covered with a special moat.

The fortress is located near Sudak within a pleasant walk. Strictly speaking, it is not entirely logical to attribute it exclusively to Genoese times. Long before this, the fortified city of Sugdea, which belonged to Byzantium, was located here.

Many of the region’s fortified areas date back to the Byzantine period. In the Genoese times, many fortifications were erected in the Crimea, for example, Kafa, Chembalo, Vosporo, Yalita (Yalta) and others. All these are now famous cities and favorite vacation spots. Any of them may well be called Genoese. Exactly because of this reason it will be more correct to name the Sudak fortress (at its location).

There are other names for the fortress - Sugdeya (in Greek), Soldaya (European), Sugdak (Persian). In accordance with the main hypothesis, the Sugdean settlement was rebuilt in 212 AD. e. According to one of the existing versions, the Alans were its indigenous inhabitants. This is evidenced by the records of the monks in the annals of Sinaksar of Sughd.

In the VI century, Byzantium owned the region. In the VIII century - the Khazars, and in the X - Sugdeya again passed to the Byzantines. Since the end of the XI century, the territory has been under the protectorate of the Polovtsy. XIII century - Sugdeya conquered by the Golden Horde. During the time of troubles in the Horde in 1365, the Genoese conquer it.

In those days, by agreement with the Mongol Khanate, Genoa already owned trading posts in the Cafe. Thus began the Genoese page in the history of the fortress, but not for long. In 1475, warlike Turks conquered several fortresses in Primorye, and then the Principality of Theodoro itself. In 1771, the Russian troops were already recapturing the fortress, where the cavalrymen of the Kirillovsky regiment lodged.

Today, due to the huge volume of restoration work carried out, the Genoese fortress is rather a a complete monument of architecture, rather than just historical ruins. Nevertheless, the entire ancient fortification could not be restored.

Major fortifications include the Consular Castle and 14 tower structures up to 15 meters high. The total area of ​​the fortified area is approximately 30 hectares. Limestone walls are made in 2 tiers (2 defense belts). The height of the walls of the first line reaches 8 meters, the thickness is up to 2 meters. Between the walls on the terraces were residential and religious buildings. Terraces sectorally shared the streets climbing to the castle of consuls. The artisans' buildings were prudently placed behind the main wall due to their likely fire.

The first defense belt of the fortification consists of a castle for consuls and St. George, Bezymyannaya, Watch towers. The fortress zones in the northeast and northwest included two fortified zones, between them there were gates and additional fortifications. Two towers were erected along the edges of the entrance opening: J. Torsello and Bernabo di Pagano. In a harmonious and impregnable defensive complex, all the fortifications were united by a powerful wall connecting them.

Above the main gate is a slab indicating the date of construction of the entire defensive structure (1389).From the northeast, the fortification is represented by three more tower structures: Luchini de Flisco Lavane, Corrado Chicalo, Pasquale Giudice. From the north-west of the fortified area, not far from the entrance gate, tower structures are visible: the Cornerstone, Guarco Rumbaldo, J. Marion.

The fortress became Russian property in 1783. During this period, the fortifications were dilapidated. Nevertheless, restoration work carried out in the twentieth century made it possible to preserve individual buildings and, although partially, destroyed walls.

The consular castle as a whole was saved. Its enclosed courtyard is represented by a quadrangular donjon tower (the main residence of the consuls) and Corner with dividing walls. In its utility rooms (on the first tier) at one time there was a massive tank with drinking water (supplied, by the way, through clay conduits). The entire structure of the castle is crowned with a toothed arcature belt. The side passage of the building connects it with the St. George Tower, which basically retained its original features.

The highest point of the fortress is the Watch Tower (160 m), which was built in the period from X to XIII century. Its second name is the Castle of St. Elijah. In shape, it is made in the form of a quadrangle and now functions as a viewing platform.

In the lower defense sector, a relatively well restored Main Gate complex is located, including:

• barbican;
• bridge;
• moat;
• Bernabo di Pagano and J. Thorselli towers;
• Battisto di Zoallo - portal (dividing wall).

The Barbican is a complementary defensive structure that protrudes somewhat forward and anticipates the entrance gate. In ancient times, it was surrounded by a defensive ditch with a bridge, which greatly complicated the attempts of the attacking enemy to penetrate the fortress. At night, the bridge rose, and the guards carried their watch on the towers. The garrison in the fortress was not large (several dozen warriors), however, in case of danger, it was largely replenished by local residents.

Massive lifting gates presented to the enemy who overcame the barbican, where he fell under heavy fire from the height of walls and towers. Two gate towers form the entrance: from the west - J. Thorselli, from the east - Barnabo di Pagano. Information on the plates laid on the towers says that the first was erected in 1385, and the second in 1414. The inscriptions also reflect the names of the consul managers, under whose rule these structures were built.

Unique surviving structures located on the north-western line of defense. Among them are the towers: J. Marion and Guarco Rumbaldo. The first was erected in 1388, and its quadrangular form was later equipped with a superstructure - another tier, which housed a special passage with a parapet. The second tower in 3 tiers was built in 1394. The towers are separated by a curtain.

Passing to the northeastern zone, which refers to the lower fortified line, we find the stately tower of Pasquale Dzhudice. This multilayer open creation was completed in 1392. The semicircular design, which contrasts sharply against the background of the entire defensive system with its unusual forms, and also complements the system - the Corrado Chicalo tower, erected in 1404, is not inferior to it in beauty.

Of the port fortifications, only the square-shaped tower of F. Astagwera (Portovaya) reached us, which adorned the complex in 1386.

Not only the tower structures are notable for the Sudak fortress, but also a temple with an arcade erected by the Turks. At the end of the XVIII century, the building repeatedly changed its purpose. A mosque, a cathedral, an Armenian temple, a church - such is its rich history. Now there is a museum of archeology, with many rich and interesting exhibitions.

The city can be reached from Simferopol or Feodosia by bus. Conveniently you can get from Alushta or Feodosia by boat.

Getting to the place on our motor vehicle, we are looking for a street in Sudak. Lenin and follow it to the village of New World. In the direction of the street, the Tourist Highway continues. Then we follow the “Sugar Head” (it remains on the left), from where the Sudak fortress will already be visible. Near the bus stop "Village Uyutnoe" there is a paid parking lot (sightseeing buses arrive here), where there is always the possibility of parking.

For promotion by public transport, the stop "Village Cozy" will serve as a guide. Minibuses No. 6 and No. 5 go from the bus station to this landmark (it follows to the New World).

Moving towards the fortress, you will meet a completely civil tree of desires. Hanged with symbolic ribbons sold here, the tree looks very elegant. Making a wish in such a special historical place is a truly memorable event.

The construction of the fortress lasted from 1371 to 1469 - almost a century. The result of the inspired work of the ancient masters was a powerful, long-term complex of defensive structures, in compliance with all the rules of European fortification. The builders named each of the 14 towers erected in honor of the consuls who ruled Sugdei during the construction of the corresponding facility. Proof of this are the embedded slabs of the towers, on which inscriptions and heraldry are embossed.

Quite often, various historical reconstructions, festival performances and exhibitions are carried out in the fortress, but the main thing is the large-scale reconstruction of the “Genoese helmet” knightly battles. There is a souvenir fair throughout the season, and a picturesque pirate, a kind of Jack Sparrow with a dead man’s chest, is “evil” on the barbican. Announcements of events can be seen on the site "Sudak Fortress".

August is the best time to get to know the fortress. It is in August that the chivalry “Genoa Helmet” is held. By participating in the reconstruction of scenes from the life of medieval knights, citizens and artisans, you will be impressed for a long time. Knightly tournaments are held according to all the rules of fencing fights and almost realistically show spectators the strength, dexterity and distance of knights. Fights are held in the nominations: “shield-sword”, “two-handed sword”, “shield-ax”, “sword-sword”, “shield-spear” and others.

The culmination of the holiday is a mass battle, a bugurt. At first, knightly groups fight according to the production plan. Models of siege vehicles, pyrotechnic devices, rams take part in the battles. This is followed by a combat unit in which each knight conducts military operations according to his plan in order to win.

The fortress is often involved in filming. The uniqueness and photogenicity of the fortress attracts many famous directors here. Here were filming the films "Othello", "Pirates of the XX century", "Hamlet", "Amphibian Man", "Primordial Russia", "Viking".

In 2004, the television series “The Master and Margarita” was created by director V. Bortko (episodes at Calvary). Hence the name “Sudak Golgotha” arose. Here, in 1994, Y. Kara shot his picture “The Master and Margarita”.Due to some disagreements, the picture was shown in closed viewing mode at the XXVIII Film Festival. In the open box, she appeared only in 2011.

The Sugarloaf Rock (Golgotha) is a small part of the reef on which climbers train (and even there were victims). The views from her are impressive.

Walking around the fortress, you will find on its territory two large tanks (185 m3 and 350 m3) for water supplies that came into them from the surrounding hills through special clay conduits. The famous museum of numismatics now operates in a larger capacity.

In the 13th century, the Venetian merchant M. Polo opened his trading business in Sughdea, whose nephew, later the famous navigator Marco Polo, often visited his uncle, not showing much zeal for his business affairs.

If you carefully examine the walls of the citadel, then it is easy to see the reddish lines on them, indicating the visual border between the ancient masonry and the modern superstructure, made in the process of restoration.

Focusing on the many positive reviews of tourists who visited Sudak fortress, we can rightly say that this is one of the few places in Russia and not only where a good rest so thoroughly and romantically merges with the cognitive aspects of world history.

The gray-haired and severe antiquity that has come down to our days makes us directly feel the mysterious connection of times and again, in a new way, perceive ourselves and the world around us. You can be sure that this new attitude you received during a peculiar time travel will never leave you.

Video review of the Genoese fortress in Sudak see below.