Types of weaving gold chains

The chain is one of the most versatile jewelry. However, when you purchase it, you may have difficulty with the choice, since the range of goods, the variety of models are very large. To find the right thing, you need to take into account a number of points, namely: the type of weaving and lock, the method of manufacturing this jewelry - and a few more details.

Chains are very popular jewelry, which is in demand among both men and women. There are several ways to create these jewelry. The most ancient is manual work, requiring a lot of time and highly skilled craftsmen.

The chains are also woven in a machine way, which requires the use of high-precision and expensive equipment. This method allows you to make thin, almost weightless jewelry. The minimum wire thickness is only 0.15 mm!

However, not all types of weaving are available for industrial production, so the work of a jeweler in some cases remains indispensable. Handcrafted jewelry has a significantly higher weight and is highly durable (when performing work by a qualified specialist).

The cheapest manufacturing method is stamping. Elements of chains are created by forcing sheet metal, for this special cutting dies are used.In this case, the links do not solder, they are simply assembled, which affects the strength of the finished product.

There are many varieties of weaving, while some of them are considered masculine, others are female, and others are classified as "unisex."

By the complexity of manufacturing, these jewelry can also be different. Some can be done only manually, others are available for industrial, machine production. Complex and time-consuming work requires, for example, a type of knitting such as a “rope” - twisted weaving from many small elements.

Jewelry of different types of knitting have different weights. Distinguish chains are massive, dense and delicate, light. The first includes, among other things, the “spike” weaving, the elements of which are twisted so that they form a V-shaped pattern characteristic of the ears.

There are three main types of weaving: anchor, shell and Bismarck. They differ in the type of elements and the nature of their arrangement relative to each other.

The main features of different types of chain binding:

• With the anchor type of weaving, adjacent links are perpendicular to each other. With the classic anchor weaving, they are the same and have an oblong shape. However, there are a number of varieties of weaving of this type, in which the shape of the links may be different. The location of adjacent links at right angles to each other, even with a small thickness, visually gives the chain bulk with a relatively small weight.

• No less popular weaving type "Bismarck" (aka "Kaiser"), which also has a lot of varieties and variations. The chain is formed by links of a spiral shape, which are enclosed one into another, resulting in a bizarre and beautiful pattern. Links for this type of connection are made of wire twisted into a spiral; the ends of the elements are sealed after connecting the links to each other.

• Carapace weaving involves the location of the links on the same plane, as on chain mail.

The most universal type of weaving is considered anchor. It goes well with pendants of various types, just make sure that the weight of the pendant or cross corresponds to the thickness of the chain.

Subspecies of anchor weaving:

• “Sea chain” if there is a reinforcing bridge in the links;
• Double if the links are double;
• “Double roll”, or “Garibaldi” (in honor of the spouses of Garibaldi), if doubled round links are connected;

• “Venetian” if the shape of the links is square / rectangular;

• 1 + 1, if in the chain all the links have the same strongly elongated shape;
• 1 + 2, if there is an alternation: one standard link - two elements of a very elongated shape;

• "Moscow bit." In addition to standard, oblong, it contains additional links of curved shape, which give the chain additional density. Suitable for men's jewelry;

• “Rollo”, or French weaving, it is also “Beltser”, or “Chopard” (from the name of the jewelry house Chopard, who used this version of chains in his works), if the chain links are perfectly round. "Shopard" is also a very versatile variety of anchor weaving. Massive chains in some cases are an independent aesthetic detail, in others they can be combined with men's jewelry, and thin, with small links, are ideal for a female pendant / pendant;

• Cordova, when each link is connected not only with the two nearest, but also with a large number of links, forming a wave-like or step-like pattern of the chain;

• "Aurora". It is considered a fantasy subspecies of anchor weaving;
• "Hawaiian". Another fantasy weave.

This type of knitting has many varieties. Among the most famous are:

• Double Bismarck;
• Triple Bismarck;
• "Python" (or "Pharaoh", "Italian", "American", "whim"). This option is perfect for both women and men;

• Moscow (classic) Bismarck;

• "Trickle";

• Arabic bismarck. A more airy and openwork version compared to the classic;

• Glamor. Links are decorated with small metal balls on two sides;

• "Rose flower". Each link is a spiral welded in such a way that this element resembles a flower;

• “Fox tail” (“Byzantium”, “royal weaving”). This subtype has several varieties: circle, semicircle, square, assembled "fox tail";

• "Abinata."

The Bismarck weave is considered to be suitable mainly for men's jewelry, although some of its subspecies, such as “rose” or “glamor”, belong to the category “for women”. There are also varieties of the universal plan: this is a trickle, a python, and an Arabic.

There are different subspecies of shell mating, including:

• Love. The links are heart-shaped;
• Figaro (Cartier). In a certain order, elements of different shapes are connected. The most common connection is 3 + 1 (three round and one oblong), but other options are possible (1 plus 1; 2 plus 1, etc.);
• "Rhombus". Diamond-shaped elements are connected. A rhombus can be single, double or triple. A very elegant variety of shell-weaving;

• "Snail" ("clip"). Elements of the chain with a curl in the center and resemble a paper clip;
• "Singapore". The decoration is twisted in a spiral thanks to the links, which are slightly curved, so it glitters and shimmers;

• "Nonna" ("nona"). The name comes from the Italian language, is an abbreviation of the phrase "grandmother's weaving." The chain consists of large and small links, the second are placed in the first;

• "Cobra". Two-link weaving, strong and durable, can be made of gold of the same color, or in a two-tone version, with alternating elements from different types of alloys. Such a chain can be worn over clothes;

• "Serpentine." Decoration elements create a wave-like pattern, located in one plane.

Popular weaves include:

Elements in the form of a ball and cylinder are connected using a thread. A chain can consist only of “ball” elements or of two types of elements, it can have several rows, that is, be double or triple. It is difficult to call the method of manufacturing such an ornament as actual weaving. Jewelry is more like a bead than a chain. It looks very impressive, but it requires a very careful attitude, since it is easily deformed, for the same reason it is not worn with pendants.

Such decorations can be of different types of sections (circle, square), the chain is hollow and looks like a snake. The flat "snake" is called "Cleopatra."

It is an interweaving of several bands of shell-type knitting. The jewelry is voluminous, impresses with its brilliance and acts as an independent part, such as a necklace, which does not require additions in the form of any pendants. Ribbons of this decoration can be made of gold in different colors.

There are also unusual combined weaving, when different types of knitting, for example, “fox tail” and anchor, are combined in one piece of jewelry. Elements of different types can be made of different gold alloys.

The links of the chains can be connected with a variety of decorative inserts, for example, a Bismarck jewelry can be decorated with precious stones. Links can be of non-standard forms and unusual design, for example, in the form of the letter “A” (weaving “admiral”) or in the form of a figure of eight, the variety of options is very large.

The most durable types of weaving are considered "Bismarck" and shell-like in the varieties "rhombus" and "Nonna".The service life of high-quality jewelry made using the Bismarck technique is very long (tens of years). In addition, such chains can be repaired, if necessary.

The strength of the chain depends not only on the type of knitting, but also on the type of alloy from which it is made. An ideal option for a gold chain, for example, is considered gold of 585th test.

Whole and hollow chains are distinguished depending on the type of wire. Hollow ones are lighter in weight and much less durable, however, they look no less spectacular than solid ones at a relatively low cost. They require a very careful attitude.

The following types of locks are used for jewelry chains:

A ring with a bolt on a spring. It is installed on fairly light jewelry, weighing up to 5 g. In the event of a breakdown, it is not repairable.

It is installed on jewelry weighing from 5 g, also has a spring. A reliable lock, if its size corresponds to the weight of the product. In case of breakdown, it is subject to repair. May be in the form of an oval or a drop.

Very reliable lock, especially if it is equipped with additional fixing loops. It is installed on heavy jewelry weighing from 20 g. It consists of two parts: a box with a hole and an element that enters into it, which is fixed inside.

It is quite rare. It has a hinged lid, due to the hinge it folds in half and is fixed. It is convenient to use, but requires care: it is necessary to control whether the lock is closed to the end.

It is considered relatively reliable, but not very convenient: in order to quickly close it, it takes some skill, otherwise it will take a certain amount of time.

It consists of a T-shaped element and a ring into which it is threaded. Reliable lock and easy to manufacture. Easy to fasten.

Clings to a special loop. It is used on chains with heavy pendants, otherwise it may be unreliable.

When choosing, you should pay attention not only to the type of weaving and type of castle, but also to the length of the decoration. A universal option for women is a chain length of 40-50 cm. A length of 50-60 cm is chosen if you need to visually lengthen the neck.

Short chains (up to 40 cm) are suitable only for women with a long neck. You should not choose such chains for women of mature age, for them a medium-length jewelry, complemented by a pendant or pendant, is more suitable.

It should be borne in mind that the bottom edge of the chain should not be covered with clothing, you need to choose a dress or blouse with a neckline corresponding to the length of the jewelry, or take into account when buying with which wardrobe it is planned to combine it.

If you intend to combine a chain with a pendant or a pendant, choose the jewelry intended for this. Not all types of weaving allow this use. There are chains designed for pendants, as well as decorative and universal.

Very long chains, especially with large pendants, visually slim the figure, but girls should choose them tall or medium height, short ones should refrain from such jewelry so as not to visually shorten their growth.

It is better if the bracelet matches the chain according to the type of weaving and color of the metal. If jewelry does not constitute one set, then they should have a similar color and approximately the same thickness, match in density or openwork, and be in harmony in style.

A ready-made set of pendants and earrings, a bracelet and a chain is the simplest, but completely optional option. You can choose jewelry that is not paired to each other, combine in one look including several types of chains with different pendants - the main thing is to correctly combine them, given the length, color, texture, achieving harmony. Multilayer and multi-row jewelry is now in trend.

The thickness of the chain should correspond to the weight and size of the pendant or pendant. It is believed that the weight of the chain should be twice the weight of the pendant. A massive pendant can break a thin chain, and a medium-sized or openwork jewelry will look inharmonious on a voluminous one.

The more intricate the suspension, the easier the chain weaving should be. The color of the metal of both jewelry should match. Choosing a chain of a certain length and combining it with a pendant, you can set the necessary accents in your image, emphasize the necessary details, since a large pendant or a large chain invariably attract attention.