How to sew a blouse: patterns and master classes

A blouse is a truly female model of clothing, which should become one of the important parts in the wardrobe of a modern stylish woman. Due to its versatility, it suits different fashion trends and combines with many styles. Many models - classic, with a peplum, in the style of a bat with lowered sleeves, with a swing-collar and many others - will allow each girl to choose the right model and sew it with her own hands, based on her abilities and desire.

Knowing how to build a basic pattern for cutting fabric onto a blouse will open the way for sewing more complex models with sleeves and various additional decorative elements. Before you start building a pattern, you need to measure the following parameters (the numbers are shown for example and for clarity when building a drawing step by step):

• Back (length to the waistline, cm) - 40.
• Shoulder (length, cm) - 15.
• Neck (semicircle (neck), cm) - 20.
• The area above the chest (semicircle (ON over the chest), cm) - 46.
• Chest (semicircle (chest), cm) –50.
• Hips (semicircle (on the thigh), cm) –52.

Draw a rectangle MNPK (for convenience, designate the letters from the upper left corner clockwise) with the following sides:

1. The sides of MN and KP are equal to the sum of the chest and 5 cm, regardless of size. For example, at 50 cm specified in the parameters, the length of the sides will be 55 cm. This is the width of the future blouse.
2. The sides MK and NP are the sum of the length of the back to the waist and 18 cm, regardless of size. For example, at 40 cm specified in the parameters, the length of the sides will be 58 cm.
3. Define the depth of the armhole - it will be the sum of one third parameter PO of the chest and 4 cm. So, with the above figure, the size of the armhole will be 21 cm. To construct it, measure the calculated distance from the end of M along the segment MK and name the resulting point G. From it draw a parallel segment MN to the point of intersection with side NP and mark, for example, G1.
4. Determine the level of the waist. To do this, measure the back length from the end M (in the parameters for the example it is 4 cm) along the MK side and name the resulting point B. From it, draw a parallel MN segment to the point of intersection with the NP side and mark B1 for convenience.

1. From point G, measure to the right a segment equal to the sum of one third of the semicircle of the chest and 3 cm. In this case, the segment will be equal to 20 cm. Mark the end of the segment with point G2, from which then draw a straight line up parallel to the MK side until it intersects with the upper base MN, name the place intersections with the letter O. This is the width of the back of the blouse.
2. From the point G2, measure to the right a segment equal to one fourth PO of the chest - for this pattern it will be 13 cm. The end of the segment is point G3, and the segment itself shows the width of the armhole of the blouse.
3. From point G1, measure up a segment parallel to the MK side, which is made up of one second PO of the chest and 0.5 cm - according to the model measurements made, it is 25.5 cm. The end of the segment is point W.
4. From point G3, measure upwards the same segment 25.5 cm long, the end of which is point O1, the point of intersection with the segment MN is called the letter O2. Merge points O1 and W.

Thus, the rise of the blouse shelf is built:

1. Find the middle of the segment G2-G3, mark the found place as G4. From it, lower the perpendicular to the segment KP, designate the point of intersection of the perpendicular with this segment as R, and with segment BB1 - as B2. So the side line of the blouse appeared.
2. Dividing the segments O-G2 and O2-G3 into 4 identical segments, additional marks are obtained for constructing straight shoulder girdles and armholes.
3. Extend the segments O-G2 and O2-G3 by 1 cm down, combine the ends obtained - this is the designation of the descent of the armhole of the blouse.

Marking the neckline:

1. From point M, measure to the right a segment equal to the sum of one third of the semicircle of the neck and 0.5 cm. For this model, it will be 6.5 cm. From it, measure up 1.5 cm, and from it another 1. Combine the found point with the point M a smooth line with a bend.
2. Measure from the point O 2 cm down - this will be the level of the shoulder of the blouse, on which the shoulder bevel line will be further built.
3. From the point of 1.5 cm, measured earlier in the construction of the neck, through point 2, indicated when marking the shoulder inclination, draw a segment that is the sum of the length of the shoulder (t. 14) and another 1 cm (taken into account for proper fit). The result was a shoulder cut line.
4. Measure from point 1, dividing the angle into two equal parts, 3 cm. Through point 14, the middle of the segment O-G2, points 3 and G4 draw a straight line for the armhole.
5. From point 2, measure 2 cm to the left. Through points G4, 2 and H, draw a line that forms the line of the side seam.

It is built according to the following scheme:

1. Measure from the point W to the left a segment equal to one third PO of the neck + 0.5 cm. Mark its end as W1. According to the example, the length is 7.5 cm.
2. Measure from the end of W down a segment equal to one third on the neck +1.5 cm. In this case, we obtained a segment of 8.5 cm.
3. Connect the found points W and 8.5 cm with a dotted line, find its middle and from the point W through the center of the segment draw a segment of 7.5 cm.
4. Combine points W, 7.5 and 8.5 with a smooth line with a bend. The result was a neckline neckline
5. From the end of W1, measure 4 cm to the left, then another 1 cm down. Combine the ends W1 and 1. From point G1, measure a segment equal to the neckline + shoulder length from the neckline to the chest tuck - 1 cm. According to the measurements for the sample, a segment of 11.5 cm is obtained. Combine its end with point 1. The shoulder length from cut-outs to the breast tuck.
6. Find the center of the right segment of the tuck line (from 1 to 11.5) and measure the segment to the left equal to the difference between the PO of the chest and the PO above the chest. According to the sample it turned out 4 cm.From point 11.5 through point 4, draw a segment equal to the right line of the tuck, and mark its end with the point O3.
7. Merge the dots O3 and the midpoint of O-G2. From the end of O3, measure with a dashed line a segment equal to the difference in the length of the shoulder and 4 cm (the length of the shoulder from the cutout to the chest protrusion). The segment is 11 cm. Next, you need to combine its edge with the middle of the segment O2-G3 dotted. Then from point 11 measure 2 cm down and combine with O3. So the length of the shoulder from the chest tuck to the armhole of the blouse was designated.
8. At the dashed line drawn from point 2 to the lower end of the inner division of line O2-G3, find the middle and measure 1 cm to the right from it. Measure 2 cm from this point, dividing the angle into two equal parts. Draw through points 2 and 1, the lower division point of the segment O2-G3, the point 0.02 and G4 the segment that will be the line of the armhole of the blouse.
9. From end B2 measure 2 cm to the right. Draw a line through the points G4, 2 and R, which will be the side seam.
10. From the end of B1, measure 2 cm down and connect with point 2 from the lateral segment - this is how the waist level took shape.
11. From the end of P, extend the segment NP by 2 cm and name the resulting end R1. Connect R and R1 - the level of the hips is formed.
12. From the end of 8.5, marked during the construction of the neck, and the points R1, measure 1.5 cm to the right and combine the calculated points. Extending it by 1 cm up, combine it with a point of 8.5. Add 3 cm to the clasp. The length from the waist to the bottom is taken from 12 to 18 cm, depending on preference.

Basque is a beautiful element of clothing that gives any image of femininity. Most often, it is found on different models of dresses or on skirts, but it is also suitable for embedding in a blouse - it turns out both modestly and elegantly.

In order to independently make a pattern of a blouse, which includes a peplum with shuttlecocks, it will not take much effort - even beginner seamstresses are capable of this. Modeling takes place on a pattern-based dress.

There are only three important points in building a basques:

• The first is the waistline tuck closes.
• The second - shuttlecocks should be the same in width and rotated towards the location of the side seam.
• The third - on both halves of the pattern pattern, it is necessary to build volumetric seams with a relief, since all parts of the tuck, chest and waist, will hide in them.

That's all the main points that will help you to sew a blouse on your own with such an elegant element as a peplum with shuttlecocks.

A blouse tailoring workshop in the next video.

Chiffon is an ideal material for summer clothes. Thin soft fabric gives any image of femininity, elegance, airiness. A chiffon blouse will become an indispensable item of clothing due to the combination of lightness of fabric and classic cut, and is suitable for both evening walks and office work.

This drawing includes several decorative elements in a classic cut blouse:

• Wide cuffs with lapels.
• Stand collar.
• Folds located on the neck and shoulders.
• Very wide armholes.

Schematic drawing step by step:

1. On a pattern-based blouse, tucks at the waist to remove, leave the length of the front only to the hip line.
2. From the middle of the neckline measure 12 cm down. Draw a 3 cm wide bar, cut and close it separately from four parts.
3. Designate a shoulder line different from the initial construction. To do this, measure 2 cm to the right from the shoulder. Measure 2 cm to the left from the side of the blouse, then up another 7 cm, draw a smooth straight line with a bend along the curve.
4. A new cut line for the sleeve when connecting the shoulder point and the side point of the blouse.In addition to it, you need to draw a cuff 8 cm wide (after stitching it will be half as much). Cut it off and close separately.
5. The bottom yoke will also be double, so you need to close it 14 cm wide, and in length it will be equal to the size of the thigh circumference.
6. To trace the back part of the pattern entirely, excluding the neck - it needs to be drawn in a different way and additionally build a drawing for the stand collar.

Building a stand-up collar:

1. Construct a rectangle ABCD = EFGH, whose sides EF and GH are equal to the neckline, and the sides EH and FG are 4 cm each.
2. Measure from point G and point F 0.5-1 cm up. From the midpoints of the sides EF and GH, draw equal straight lines for the collar, respectively.
3. Thermal fabric will help to strengthen the inner side of the collar.

Stitching (steps):

1. Side seams are swept away to the armholes.
2. Sew the bottom of the blouse by 4 mm, then pull it to the line of the yoke, evenly fold the folds.
3. Make the lower yoke stronger with a thin thermal cloth, fold the front parts together with the blouse, sweep, then stitch. Next, fold the yoke twice with the face outward, iron, unscrew the open edge and make a stitch.
4. To take parts of strips condensed by means of a thermal fabric to front halves and to flash. On the blouse straps with the front parts to each other, put paired parts (pre-compacted) of the straps and also flash them.
5. Turn the planks face up, sweep, twist along the cut, sweep again and make a stitch at the edge on the outside.
6. Make folds on both halves of the blouse. Sweep the shoulder seams, then grind.
7. Sew cuffs along the slots for the hands, fold them inside out along the finished fold line so that they round the armhole on both sides. Unscrew the remaining edge and flash it.
8. Turn the cuffs to the shoulder seams, lightly fasten and iron.
9. Treat collar parts with thermal cloth.
10. Sew four loops for the collar, stitch them to the right outer side.
11. Sew a stand-up collar and stitch with three lines.
12. Sew stitches and sew buttons.

A wraparound blouse will look good with both skirts and jeans and is suitable for wearing in different life situations. Usually, such a model is sewn in the version with long sleeves, since the neckline is quite deep, and in this case it is not necessary to open additional parts of the body.

The main element of this model is the smell.. It is necessarily sewn with a fastener, since it is not designed to keep a closed shape by itself and can open at any moment, which is a feature of its structure. The elongated back makes the blouse look like a classic-style shirt, while the front has an elastic seam that allows the fabric to hang freely.

Adding to the usual pattern a few necessary elements, you can get an extraordinary and multifunctional thing that fits any elements of a women's wardrobe.

Workshop on tailoring blouse with a smell see below.

The Carmen style is not accidentally named after the Spanish woman. This name refers us to Spain, namely to its flamenco dance style, in which the upper part of the clothes was made with a neckline that revealed the shoulders and was decorated with many frills. He went into everyday life today.

A blouse with such a collar is sewn very easily and quickly and is suitable even for beginners, however, with all the simplicity of cut, it looks very impressive.

Sewing is performed as follows:

• Fold the front of the section and the front part to each other, chop along the line of the future section and sew next to the three marked sides. Cut both parts between stitches. Unscrew the obtachka inside out, iron the cuts along the edges. Then bend the grinder by 0.75 cm, sweep. Sew the front of the cuts along the edges.

• Make seams on the sides + for the sleeves.Stitch short cuts along the frills of both sleeves.

• With a line with a frequent narrow zigzag, overcast the lower sections along the ruffles of the sleeves. Iron the cut allowance on the seamy side, sew a small tight zigzag along the fold line, and cut off the excess allowance from the inside.

• Add frills from the upper section of the sleeves to the lower, to the lower sections to grind.

• Sew sleeves into armholes. Neaten seam allowances and iron.

• Overcast a section of the neck with a tight, narrow zigzag. Iron the allowance on it inside out, lay a small dense zigzag line along the front side, cut off the excess allowance from the inside.

• Iron the allowances on the drawstring inside out, in short and longitudinal sections. Pin the strip from the inside, aligning all the edges, stitch according to the marking.

Turn out ties up to 0.5 cm and blow them into the drawstring.

• Tighten the hem allowance and sew 1.5 cm from the edge.

Things in the style of a bat, with loose lowered sleeves, sit freely and do not constrain movements. Such models, thanks to the soft curves of the fabric, make the image more feminine and delicate. They give special emphasis to the hands of girls. A loose fit is suitable for any type of figure; both thin and larger women will appreciate it.

Items for sewing:

• Knitted fabric with a width of 1.5 m and a length that includes the length of the front and back of the blouse, and for the hem, waist, and also cuffs another 40 cm.
• Cuffs are sewn from rectangles with sides of 14 cm and a wrist length of + 6 cm for allowance for seams.
• Base pattern

The belt is sewn in length, depending on the volume of the hips - up to 100 cm - this is 1.5 m, for 100 cm or a little more - it is 1.7 m. Its height, like that of the cuffs, is 14 cm. You must add to the pattern allowance and hem.

When choosing fabric for sewing, you should think about what season a specific model is made for.

In summer, models made of chiffon, linen or cotton will look beautiful - they let air through in hot weather, which allows the skin to breathe and regulate body temperature. For autumn, knitted fabric, velor or cashmere will be more suitable.

The sleeve can be of different lengths, usually they take a shorter one for summer, and a longer one for cooler weather. The universal length is ¾, it looks most advantageous on such models, making a beautiful emphasis on the hands.

A blouse with a swing collar - with drapery in the chest area - has long been one of the most sophisticated options for women. She emphasizes the line of the neck and the neckline, emphasizing the head - so you should take care, in addition to the blouse, about the hair and makeup.

This is a model of simple cut, but requires little attention to the layout of the drapery, so a person who has little to do or even had nothing to do with sewing can cope with it.

The fabric for sewing should be easy to drape, it is best to use a soft knit fabric. And panne velvet will even give the blouse the simplest cut a festive look.

Materials:

• The fabric is 1.4 m wide and approximately 1.3-1.5 m long (depending on the length of the blouse, sleeve and allowance);
• 3-4 spools of thread (for the study of seams, zigzag and overlock);
• Crayon and scissors;
• Non-woven.

Stages:

• Take a suitable base for the blouse and transfer it to paper (you can take both ready-made and draw by individual standards).

• Cut a tuck at the waist.

• Cut the chest tuck, push it back and fasten. Draw the resulting diagram again on another paper.

• From the shoulder line we draw diagonal lines to the center of the front part (along the tuck solution).

• Measure the desired cutout and divide the resulting number in half.

• Transfer the pattern to the fabric. It is important here to get a smooth shoulder line and leave seam allowances.

• We cut out all the details and first sew the back details (when using the machine, you need to process the edges with a zigzag). First come the back and grind, pre-treated with non-woven. Sew, smooth the seams, iron the allowances in the direction of the stitching and stitch them at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge. Then wrap the grind to the wrong side and steam it off, cut off the excess edges.

• Combining the facing and the front and back, we fold them inside out. Sweep half the distance of the shoulder line along the sleeve, and divide the rest of the fabric into three equal folds located in the direction of the neck. Duplicate on the other shoulder and sew.

• Sew the combined edges of the facing in both parts using a single seam using an overlock. Turn the hem along the back part inside out, align the seams at the shoulders and manually fix it.

• Turn sleeves into holes for them.

• Process the bottom of the blouse with an overlock.

If it turned out that the knitwear has a transverse direction, then it must be fixed with a zigzag seam so that it does not stretch all the time. With the same seam, process the bottom of the sleeve. It is convenient in that it stretches a little and does not burst.

The blouse is ready!

There are different models of blouses with this type of neck. There are models with short sleeves that are more suitable for the summer. An interesting solution is to add drapery along the side seam, and with the help of an additional built-in drawstring to adjust its volume.

You can see other master classes in the following videos.